One lap of Barber on video...

[carnut169]

This is the last lap of the race on Sunday...

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t=20f54cef.flv

[Stan Clayton]

Where are all the other cars, Sean...?

[carnut169]

Ok Stan, here are some clips proving I was not the only one there... last bit shows the terraced paddock.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t=7d0c9cd5.flv

[Stan Clayton]

I expected you to say, "Behind me!"...

Hey, I just recalled something I've been meaning to ask you...how is the engine holding up? And is it wet or dry sump?

Thanks! Stan

[carnut169]

Well, they were!
So far, so good on the engine. My Ebay clunker continues to pull strong... but I've got another one sitting in the garage ($1500 on the bay) when this one gives up the ghost. Even has the orig clutch which I use for all downshifts. Unlike the Pinto I'll run this till its dead since it gets tossed rather than rebuilt. It is dry-sumped with a Maxsym system.

[Brandon Dixon]

Do you have an estimate of the number of race car miles, or hours, or races, or any other measure of how much time that this engine has on it?

In other words, are these engines going to last 5 races, 10 races, 2 seasons, etc.... Obviously the installation is going to matter, a good oil and fuel supply, and not twisting the engine with the chassis will all certainly help, but just looking for some basis for comparison to the auto engine cars.

Brandon Dixon

[Stan Clayton]

Very cool...and thanks for the update!

[formulasuper]

Brandon, I have 11 regional races on my Ralt/Hayabusa FS since completion of the conversion & the Suzuki 1300 still runs like a new one. It's basically the same design engine as the GSXR 1000, just 300cc larger with a little less HP, but more torque. The only maintenance I've done is changing the oil & filter and cleaning the air & fuel filters. These motorcycle engines are powerful, light weight, reliable, cheap, plentiful & include a 6 speed sequential tranny. This is going to be big.

[Rick Brannon]

Do you do any leakdown tests on your engine? If you do will you post the results just curious as to the numbers to compare them to auto engines. thanks

[Matt Conrad]

Sean,

Where did you dig up the Maxsym dry sump???

Matt Conrad
Phoenix Race Works, LLC

[Richard Dziak]

Sean wrote:

"Even has the orig clutch which I use for all downshifts."

Sean, are you using a quick up-shift kit on your car. I see you have a dynojet decal on your car.

If you do use the quick up-shift kit, can you fill us in how you like it, how hard was it to install, and what was the cost of the kit.

[Stan Clayton]

Do you do any leakdown tests on your engine? If you do will you post the results just curious as to the numbers to compare them to auto engines. thanks

I don't have any leakdown test results for motorcycle engines, but for comparison I recently did a leakdown after 16 National and Regional races on the 1.8L VW SuperVee (watercooled) engine in my CSR, and here are the results: (cold, dry engine...100 psi input pressure)

1. 99/100
2. 98/100 (spark plug had very tiny ally specks in 10X lupe)
3. 99/100
4. 99/100

Stan

[Rick Brannon]

Thanks Stan, leakdown is the way I have always managed my engine life cycle and maintenance. When I ran a FF engine the leakdown test proved to me that I need to lap vavles and clean the ports on the head of a pushrod engine after every event to be competitive. A pinto engine in my 2L showed negligeable leakage after a weekend 1-3% on average (not withstanding right foot brain farts and downshift mechanical overrevs farts that a rev limiter can't help). So I was real curious as to how well the bike engines performed from this aspect.

[Mark H]

Yeah I smoked Sean. The vid even shows it.

No I diden't blow the apex, just gave room.

[HastyHorn]

A good motorcycle engine is very similar. It will be in the less than 2% range....HOWEVER, the test has to be repeated with the engine turned over a couple of times between tests. It is not uncommon to occasionally get a small granule caught between a valve (remember these have a lot of valves) and a seat and it will show a 5% (or greater) leakdown for one test.

Best part about a leakdown test is that the leak can be heard (usually) and it will tell you where the problem is....at the exhaust, intake or out the crankcase breather (rings).

Hasty Horn

[Rick Brannon]

Thanks, this is the information I was looking to understand, I have an Atlantic car and love running it, however a F1000 is an attractive alternative to run inbetween now it appaers to be a cost effective one also. Thanks again.

[carnut169]

Matt-

Picked up the Maxsym system used when I 1st started building the car 2 years ago. I heard mixed reviews about it but mine has worked perfectly.


Speaking of 1st building the car; Richard, the shifter is a simple push-pull cable. Dynojet also makes a Power Commander which I do have.
We built the car with every possible do-dad- Pingle shifter, Davis Craig water pump controller, etc. GO SIMPLE! All of those items gave me problems... now the water pump just runs 100%, and the Push-pull cable works great. Perhaps its not as fast as a quick shifter but Jeff was right behind me at Barber until his wizzy shifter missed a gear out of the kink... see you later.

The more stuff you have the more you have to go wrong. I even pulled out my data system.

[Stan Clayton]

Good stuff, Sean!

BTW, how much does your car weigh with water, oil and residual fuel?