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Thread: VD Fuel Cell

  1. #1
    Fallen Friend Sean Maisey's Avatar
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    Default VD Fuel Cell

    I am working on the plumbing systems for my conversion of a 1999 Van Diemen to FB spec. I am trying to spec out a fuel system, and have a few questions that I hope the forum can answer.

    From what I can gather there are two approaches with an injected motor. First, use an external pump, plus regulator/gauge, return line to tank etc... Second use a in-tank pump (much cheaper and simplier).

    I would like to pursue the in-tank pump, but I can not find an obvious way to service the cell in ny car. Anyone know the secret for getting into the tank, short of drilling out all of the rivets and removing the cell entirelly?

    Thanks in advance,
    Sean

  2. #2
    Fallen Friend Sean Maisey's Avatar
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    Default Nevermind

    I answered my own question. Removed the seat and found an oval access plate. So in tank pump it is. Two other questions...

    1) Anyone know where to get a gasket?
    2) Anyone know how the wires are usually run for the intank pump in a Zetec?

    Thanks.
    Sean

  3. #3
    Contributing Member glenn cooper's Avatar
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    Default Version 3.0

    Hi Sean, First off - Congrats on delivery of your Novak kit. I'm waiting patiently for mine and this weekend I will start disassembly of my RF99 as my nuked LD from Barber this past weekend (wiped out the R&P AND input shaft) makes any future FC running impossible. A sign from the Gods? You decide. I have.

    There is another way to plumb this thing. I drove a GSXR powered DSR in 2005 that had a low pressure, in cell pump feeding into a "make up tank", basically a roughly 1 Qt aluminium container that had the stock motorcycle pump submerged inside. The reason being that there would all- ways be an undisturbed quantity of fuel to feed the rail. We never had a problem with this set up. The tank was tall and skinny, so the amount of slosh was limited...

    Just an idea,
    GC

    Oh yeah, the cell can be easilly accessed by removing the little shallow "V" shaped top brace behind your seat back. It is pinned in the middle, and bolted on the ends. Get a fresh gasket from ATL or whoever the manufacturer is.
    Last edited by glenn cooper; 07.10.07 at 11:36 PM. Reason: approaching crusty middle agedness and forgot some bits

  4. #4
    Contributing Member RussMcB's Avatar
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    Default

    Sean, sounds like you've got a good plan. I didn't have that option with my RF94 fuel cell since it has no access plate. My set up is exactly as Glenn described (except low pressure pump is external). Scott Woodruff (Formula Super) turned me on to the idea. One big benefit is that bike pumps can be purchased pretty cheap on ebay. I got a spare for $8! It simplifies a few things because you can reuse the lines and fittings between the tank and fuel rail since they all went together on the bike. It was a little bit of a challenge to fabricate the holding tank (and find a place for it), but was a little easier because I bought a smashed bike gas tank and cut off the fuel pump mount (with O-ring boss, etc.). I'll post a picture if anyone is interested.
    Racer Russ
    Palm Coast, FL

  5. #5
    Contributing Member formulasuper's Avatar
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    Default

    A few words of warning about low pressure pumps. Don't waste your time with the Facet High Performance round cylinder style pumps that have a removable screen on one end. After fooling with about 5 or 6 different models of these pumps I finally realized for some unexplanable reason they won't keep up with the demands of a Hayabusa engine. After about 5 laps I would experience 0 fuel pressure & fuel starvation, then once the high pressure pump fuel canister filled back up I could run another few laps until it happened again. After I switched to one of the cheaper original square black Facet pumps I have never had another problem! All these Facet pumps are rated for more fuel flow than we ever use. Go figure!
    By the way, I have the low pressure pump installed externally, with a screen type filter between the fuel cell outlet fitting & the pump, then a fine micro particle filter between the canister containing the Suzuki high pressure pump and the fuel rail. I used the original Suzuki plastic snap-on fuel line fittings with high pressure fuel hose clamped to them to connect the H/P pump to the fuel rail. I connected my fuel pressure gage by drilling & tapping a hole in the end of the plastic fuel rail for a 1/8" NPT fitting.
    Last edited by formulasuper; 07.11.07 at 9:23 AM.
    Scott Woodruff
    83 RT5 Ralt/Scooteria Suzuki Formula S

    (former) F440/F5/FF/FC/FA
    65 FFR Cobra Roadster 4.6 DOHC

  6. #6
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    Default

    Sean you might want to consider the Zetec fuel tower. Simple,tidy,and reliable.I have been running this set-up for over a year with no problem.Just saw the photos of Jays finished work.Look's fantastic. Jon

  7. #7
    Fallen Friend Sean Maisey's Avatar
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    Default Converging on a solution

    Hey Jon, what does the Zetec pump setup run these days? I like that idea and I was going to go that way initially, but I thought I remembered it was well over $500. Let me know if I am wrong and I'll change my plans.

    For now I have an in cell pump on order from PeterD Motorsports. His kit runs $225 and uses a popular Bosche pump used in a lot of the Porsche line. For those of you building cars, you should check out the PeterD site. They are primarily a dirt oval racing supplier but they make a few pieces we can use. I am using their AN conversion fittings for my oil cooler lines. Link: http://www.peterdmotorsports.com

    Sean

  8. #8
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    Default Peter D cell pump

    Sean
    Will You give more details on how You plan to install this pump?
    Thanks
    Hector.

  9. #9
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    Default Zetec pump

    Sean, I looked ito the Zetec pump & it is very neet, however the ones I saw only fit into the newer cells with the removable plate top.

    Jay

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