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  1. #1
    Member
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    Default 15-40 Syn motor oil

    I was using Mobile 1 15-40 oil in my FC until I couldn't find it anymore. I was looking at the Esslinger Engineering site tonight and noticed they sell a full synthetic 10-40 by the gallon only. Price is $30. there site is esslingeracing.com. FYI Dave

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Default

    my local walmart has it in the 5 qt jugs, and local advanced has it in the 1 qt bottle. Am I just lucky in the hick hills of E TN?

  3. #3
    Contributing Member
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    Default OIl

    No, I was in the local Walmart here in CT last night getting some Mobil 1 for the CTX and they had the 15W-40 also. Though not much else, what a terrible job they do of keeping the shelves stocked.

    Ed

  4. #4
    Senior Member Stu Pidd's Avatar
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    Default Oil Is Killing Our Cars

    Oil is Killing our Cars
    >
    > By
    > Keith Ansell, President
    > Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.
    > www.ForeignPartsPositively.com
    > 360-882-3596
    >
    >
    > Oil is Killing our cars Part I
    >
    >
    >
    > About a year ago I read about the reduction of
    > zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied
    > with API approval that could affect sliding and high
    > pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of
    > these chemicals in supplied oil was based on the
    > fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce
    > the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic
    > converters and introduce minute amounts of
    > pollutants into our atmosphere.
    >
    > A month or so ago I had a member of the
    > Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed
    > camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900
    > miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft
    > re-grinder and asked how this could happen. They
    > were well aware of this problem as they were
    > starting to have many failures of this type. In the
    > past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft
    > assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only
    > thing that could create this type of problem. My
    > customer has assembled many engines and had
    > lubricated the camshaft properly and followed
    > correct break in procedures.
    >
    >
    >
    > This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft,
    > one of our major suppliers. Then the bad news came
    > out: It's today's "modern" API (American Petroleum
    > Industry) approved oils that are killing our
    > engines.
    >
    >
    >
    > Next call: To another major camshaft supplier,
    > both stock and performance (Crane). They now have an
    > additive for whatever oil you are using during
    > break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won't fail
    > in an unreasonably short period of time. They also
    > suggest using a diesel rated oil on flat tappet
    > engines.
    >
    >
    >
    > Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that
    > we use for the race cars (Redline). Their response:
    > "We are well aware of the problem and we still use
    > the correct amounts of those additives in our
    > products". They continued to tell me they are not
    > producing API approved oils so they don't have to
    > test and comply. Their oils were NOT the "new,
    > improved and approved" ones that destroy flat tappet
    > engines! "We just build the best lubricants
    > possible". Sounds stupid, doesn't it, New-Approved
    > but inferior products, but it seems to be true for
    > our cars.
    >
    >
    >
    > To top this off: Our representative from a
    > major supplier of performance and street engine
    > parts (EPWI) stopped by to "warn us" of the problem
    > of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a
    > call that the representative was making only because
    > of this problem to warn their engine builders! "The
    > reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are
    > causing very early destruction of cams and
    > followers". They are recommending that, for now at
    > least, there must be a proper oil additive put in
    > the first oil used on new engines, beyond the
    > liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They
    > have been told that the first oil is the time the
    > additives are needed but remain skeptical that the
    > first change is all that is necessary. Their
    > statement: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or
    > Rotella that are usually available at auto stores
    > and gas stations.
    >
    > This problem is BIG! American Engine
    > Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333
    > directly addresses this problem. I had a short
    > discussion with their engineer and he agreed with
    > all that I had been finding.
    >
    >
    >
    > Next phone call was to a retired engineer from
    > Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer.
    > First surprise was that he restored older British
    > Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was
    > "VERY" aware of this problem because many of the old
    > bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn't rotate
    > and are having a very large problem with the new
    > oils. He has written an article for the British Bike
    > community that verify all the "bad news" we have
    > been finding.
    >
    >
    >
    > Comp Cams put out "#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat
    > Tappet Camshafts". They have both an assembly lube
    > and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the
    > bulletin was "While this additive was originally
    > developed specifically for break-in protection,
    > subsequent testing has proven the durability
    > benefits of its long term use. This special blend of
    > additives promotes proper break-in and protects
    > against premature cam and lifter failure by
    > replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that
    > the oil companies have been required to remove from
    > the off the-shelf oil".
    >
    >
    >
    > Next question: Now what do we do?
    >
    >
    >
    > From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam): "Use
    > oils rated for diesel use", Delo (Standard Oil
    > product) was named. About the same price as other
    > quality petroleum based oils. They are not API
    > formulated and have the zinc dithiophosphate we need
    > in weights we are familiar with. From the camshaft
    > manufacturer (Crane): "use our additive" for at
    > least the first 500 miles.
    >
    >
    >
    > From General Motors (Chevrolet): add EOS,
    > their oil fortifier, to your oil, it's only about
    > $12.00 for each oil change for an 8 ounce can (This
    > problem seems to be something GM has known about for
    > some time!).
    >
    >
    >
    > From Redline Oil: Use our street formulated
    > synthetics. They have what we need!
    >
    >
    >
    > From our major oil distributor: Distributing
    > Castro, Redline, Valvoline and Industrial oils:
    > "After over a week of contacts we have verified that
    > the major oil companies are aware of the problem".
    > "The representatives of the oil companies today are
    > only aware of marketing programs and have no
    > knowledge of formulation". The only major oil
    > companies they were aware of for doing anything to
    > address this are Valvoline that is offering an "Off
    > Road 20W-50" and Redline.
    >
    >
    >
    > From Castrol: We are beginning to see a
    > pattern emerging on older cars. It may be
    > advantageous to use a non-approved lubricant, such
    > as oils that are Diesel rated, 4 Cycle Motorcycle
    > oils and other specified diesel oils.
    >
    >
    >
    > Last question: So what are we at Foreign Parts
    > Positively going to do? After much research we are
    > switching to Redline Street rated oils and stocking
    > the Castrol products that are diesel rated. Castrol,
    > owned by British Petroleum, is now just a brand
    > name. This is a difficult decision as we have been a
    > dealer and great believer in all Castrol Products
    > for over 40 years. We have been using Castrol
    > Syntech oil in new engines for about 3 years so the
    > cost difference in changing to Redline is minimal.
    > The actual cost in operation is also less as the
    > additive package in Redline makes a 1-year or up to
    > 18,000 mile change recommended!
    Like a roll of toilet paper,
    life goes faster as you near the end.

  5. #5
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    Default

    I started a thread on this a couple months back. Mobil 1 20W-50 is very hard to find in my town, and for that matter at any Wal-mart I've gone to in SoCal near our tracks.

    I'm considering using the Valvoline NSL (not street legal) from now on. It comes in 5W30 and 15W50. About 6 bucks a quart at NAPA.

  6. #6
    Contributing Member TimW's Avatar
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    01.30.03
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
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    Default

    I was recommended to use this:

    http://www.schaefferoil.com/705_racing_oil.html
    ------------------
    'Stay Hungry'
    JK 1964-1996 #25

  7. #7
    Senior Member thunderracing91's Avatar
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    01.27.03
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    WI
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    I started a thread on this a couple months back. Mobil 1 20W-50 is very hard to find in my town, and for that matter at any Wal-mart I've gone to in SoCal near our tracks.

    I'm considering using the Valvoline NSL (not street legal) from now on. It comes in 5W30 and 15W50. About 6 bucks a quart at NAPA.

    I have been using this oil since the start of last year. This valvoline oil has the added zinc that is needed for high rpm engines. My engine builder recommended this oil to me since I was using the mobil 1 15/50. My local napa can get it for me for about $4 a quart.


    Andrew

  8. #8
    Senior Member johnd's Avatar
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    11.03.01
    Location
    Wallingford, CT
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    Default

    Andrew:

    I should have phoned you to place my order. The same stuff here in CT is $3.00 more/qt. Let me know if you want to set up a dealership.

    Stu, thanks for presenting the factual information about this topic. Well done.


    John D.

  9. #9
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Bath, OH
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner View Post
    I started a thread on this a couple months back. Mobil 1 20W-50 is very hard to find in my town, and for that matter at any Wal-mart I've gone to in SoCal near our tracks.

    I'm considering using the Valvoline NSL (not street legal) from now on. It comes in 5W30 and 15W50. About 6 bucks a quart at NAPA.
    I've been using the 5W30 in my FC for ~ three years now. It works very well.
    Dave Weitzenhof

  10. #10
    Member
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    Default

    BG Products has a product named MOA, part #110 that has all the good stuff in it. You just add it to the oil you have.

  11. #11
    Contributing Member EYERACE's Avatar
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    Default

    Thank you Mr. Pidd



    is there a part 2?
    Last edited by EYERACE; 02.22.07 at 4:40 PM.

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