Trailer Tire Blow Out

[RussMcB]

I'll bet there are a LOT of people with some experience with this thread's topic.

Last weekend I had a blow out on the highway. Some thoughts from the experience:

The Harbor Frieght aluminum racing jack works fine on a formula car, but it was sub par for lifting my enclosed trailer. I might put some thought into purchasing a bottle jack to live in the trailer. I'm open to suggestions.

Many thanks to the anonymous person who informed me that I had a flat. I think they flagged me soon after it happened. I'm grateful. I didn't have any fender or wheel damage. I wish I could thank that person in person. I'm sure I would have driven a bit furhter before realizing I had a problem.

Once fixed and back underway, I realized that I still had a long way to go and didn't have another spare. I decided to make a side trip (2 hours) to get two spares. I like the peace of mind I'll have with two spares.

Changing the tire on the highway wasn't fun. I'll be interested to hear suggestions about preventing incidents like this.

[EYERACE]

makes the argument for a two axle trailer

[TimW]

Assuming a double axle trailer, roll the trailer with the still good tire up on a 4x4 block you probably have (at least I do) to hold the car when loading the racecar. That should give enough clearance on the other axle to change the bum tire.

Tim

[RussMcB]

Eye, my trailer is dual axle.

Tim, yes, in fact, I had one of those specially made, hard plastic ramp thingies, but it wasn't up to the task, either (it was hollow). When I tried to drive the front tire up on top of it, it crushed! Having something similar of wood sounds good.

[Paul LeCain]

I'd be real careful using something that puts all the load on one axle. Something - the axle, the tires, or something else - will almost certainly be loaded past its limits.

Some recommend replacing the tire that didn't blow out on the theory that it had been overloaded by carrying all the weight when the other blew.

[Phil Picard]

True trailer tires are manufactured differently, I belive most of us know that, Lots of folks put light truck tires on when replacing. Not a great idea. There is a significant difference.
Idealy we should yank em off for the winter but most (myself included) dont. I think its safe to say that dry rot is the root cause of most failures.

[DanW]

Good points about tires. Trailer tires are built with a different construction to handle the rated load and not cause sway when properly inflated.

I once towed a trailer not knowing it had radial car tires. I won't ever make that mistake again.

The other bits are important as well

When was the last time you cleaned, inspected and repacked the wheel bearings?

Checked the brakes? checked the "oh S**t!" cable?

A good, functional hitch, properly attached. good safety chains.

Functioning lights.

[Purple Frog]

Russ,
I'm anal about monitoring trailer tire pressures. Leaving the shop, then leaving the track. Also, every three years I toss the tires, treadwear or not. Only use trailer tires.
GT1Vette lost a couple on the way to RRR last weekend. U R not alone.

[EYERACE]

russ - was not meant to be critical but rather preaching to the "unaxled"

had a tire blow on one of my axles yrs ago coming back from sebring, the belt wrapped very very tightly between the wheel and hub on the axle and even though i got to it right away, it took forever and all strength left at the end of a weekend to unwrap it before i could proceed.
also unknowingly, i believe a tire blew on the way down to sebring somewhere around disney on I-4, drove on one tire all the way to avon park where a stranger yelled to me.......decided to limp on all the way to the track as i'd already come that far. at sebring all that was left was a rubber ring on the wheel with some 3 to 5 inches of cord fringe to flap about.
had a mobile home tire blow on an old dual axle trailer, with no spare years ago, just about 1 mile past the last turnpike rest stop south of orlando and could not find any place at 11:00 at night to turn around. so i limped at about 20 to 25 mph the 40 miles to the next rest stop, did a better inspection in the better light, then limped again all the way to moroso. found a spare on saturday one minute before their closing time. i could never recommend a trailer that uses mobile home tires - you probably replace them after 650 miles and good luck finding them when you need one

[stonebridge20]

Had 2 tires let go on the way to VIR a few years back. The second one at 2am. We found a 24hr sears and talked one of the girls into letting us go into the closed auto department and "grab" a tire. "Flipped" her a $50 and out to the parking lot we went. We broke the bead bye driving the motorhome up on a 2' piece of 2x4 placed on the tire bead. We then popped the tire off with VERY small screwdrivers (about 10 of them) and popped the new tire on the same way. The whole process took about an hour! True McGiver stuff at it's best!Mike

[Rick Kirchner]

The sidewalls of trailer tires are a LOT stiffer and more rugged than tires for other applications. Like on the tow vehicle, I buy the highest rated tire I can get in the biggest size that fits comfotably under the fender.

My trailer came with Goodyear caravan's. What a POS! Lost 3 out of 4 due to belt separations in the sidewall in about 15000 mi. Switched to Denman's a couple of years back and they seem to take all the abuse you can dish out. One of the "big three" dealers told me Denman makes the toughest tires on the planet, and I'm beginning to believe it.

[RussMcB]

Good thread.

My Pace trailer came with Goodyears. I had no reason to think they weren't the best, but the "trailer guy" where I bought the spares told me that his opinion of Goodyear trailer tires wasn't good based on his experience.

Frog, I'm anal about pressures, too. 45 min before the blow out my pressires were "topped off". I'm still puzzled about the cause of the blow out. Poma had a blow out at about the same time on the same stretch of highway (he saw the debri but couldn't miss it). Since my rear tire blew, I didn't think is was caused by something I ran over. I wondered if I had overloaded the trailer and overheated the tire, but the trailer guy thought my load wasn't very high for the trailer and tires. I'll probably never know the cause.

[Richard Learned]

Trailer tires (or any tire for that matter) "blow out" due to heat buildup. That heat can come from overloading the tire or underinflation. Overloading is easily solved by weighing what you are hauling and matching the load carrying capacity to the load being carried keeping in mind such things as side winds etc. Underinflation is either poor maintainence or sumpin' punched a hole. IMHO put on a proper set of Michelin's or Bridgestones, check air regularly and drive on. The best part is that after you wear out those Michelin's or Bridgestone's you take them to a good Bandag dealer, retread them and run 'em again, and sometimes again and again. The quality radial is a modern relatively unknown engineering miracle. An all steel casing doesn't grow with age so it's darn near infinite, rarely do they "dry rot" unless exposed to mass amounts of ultraviolet or get run thru cattle yards on a daily basis. The softer ride is easier on the trailer and its load plus the things have less rolling resistance that helps when gasoline is at the price it is today.

Richard L

[Steve Demeter]

I always carry 2 spares. Have had a number of tires blow out, all of them pass car tires.

Switched to all trailer tires and have not had one fail since.

One interesting thing did happen to me though.

Once picked up a nial. Foiund it at home and had it plugged at the local service station.

Next trip, went about 100 miles, stopped for gas and heard the tire hissing. The pressure pushed the plug out. Apparently when it was moving and making contact witht the gorund pushing it back in every how many times a second it was fine, but once it was hot and no pressure from the ground to hold it in, out it came.

the story gets better. Stopped at a garage in Lexington and had them replug it, thinking the original plug job was bad.

got to the track, changed it that evening (at the time my spare wasn't the greatest) and the next afternoon, darn if the plug diddn't push itself out sitting in the paddock.

Went and bought a new tire.

[VehDyn]

I have heard of some people using tire pressure monitor systems designed for trailers that can give in cab readings. I think this would at least help with the slow leak, heat building scenario.

Thanks.

Ken

[Eric Cruz]

I have had two or three trailer tires shred. Always the front (I've checked axle and tongue weights - not an overload issue) and I believe it comes from the front picking up some FOD and losing air slowly. You don't feel it in the truck, the tire overheats and shreds. I keep meaning to call Longacre about their $300 wireless tire pressure monitor to see if the range is sufficient for readout in the truck. Appreciate the recommendation about the Denman tires - mine came with Goodyears, and I've always thought they were good, too. I'll probably be switching at next repalcement interval.

Best regards,
Eric

[DaveW]

Hmmmmm....

I've always gotten great results with standard Firestone automotive radials inflated to 50 psi (dual-axle 22-ft Wells-Cargo tag trailer with load levelling hitch and friction sway control). Your results may vary.

No excessive sway, good cushioning, and NO failures in many 1000's of miles over 30 years. I never liked "made-for-trailer" tires - they wear too fast, and I've had blowouts with them. With the car tires, I've had a flat or two, but that's it. Now the radial rear van light-truck tires - that's another story...

[mark defer]

when it comes to tire issues, i usually defer to dave considering the fact that he is an engineer and does work for one of the tire companies. however, on this issue i totally disagree with him. although he has had good luck with passenger tires used in trailer service, i would never suggest it to one of my customers at my tire store. the vast majority of trailer tire problems we encounter end up being passenger tires used in trailer service. once we educate the customer and put them in a tire designed specifically for trailer use, they have no further issues. "st" special trailer tires are available in higher ply ratings [carrying capacity], thus there is more margin of error if joe racer isn't dilligent about checking air pressures [which i know dave is]. they also have tread rubber which is less prone to the wear and tear. this is important because trailers are damn rough on tires, due to axle misalignment, as well as the scuffing associated with turning. additionally, trailer tire sidewalls are built to take more abuse [curbs] than passenger tires. lastly, although dave puts 50psi in his passenger tires, i wouldn't recommend inflating any tire above it's sidewall posted limit. on most standard size passenger tires, this limit is 35-41 psi. i know dave is doing it to limit sway, but tires achieve their maximum load rating at the posted limit. overinflating them does nothing to increase how much weight they can carry. use trailer tires, you'll be glad you did.
oh yeh frog. 3 years is kind of premature if you ask me. if the tires have a decent amount of tread left, and don't look all weather checked, i think 5 years would be fine. btw, the whole tire age issue is a big debate in the industry right now.

mark d

[DaveW]

Yeah, I was hesitant to post about using the car tires, but that IS what I use.

Anyway, thanks, Mark, for the proper advice.

Better safe than sorry...

[DaveW]

although dave puts 50psi in his passenger tires, i wouldn't recommend inflating any tire above it's sidewall posted limit. on most standard size passenger tires, this limit is 35-41 psi. i know dave is doing it to limit sway, but tires achieve their maximum load rating at the posted limit. overinflating them does nothing to increase how much weight they can carry.

Actually, I inflate to 50 to limit sidewall/tread deflection and heat buildup, and therefore increase the tires' durability, although less sway is a side benefit.

I DO NOT exceed the tires' nominal 35 psi maximum load.

[Steve Demeter]

Inflating to 50 psi is why Dave has never had one fail. All my car tires used on the trailer were set at 35.

[anthonywill3]

this is a great post guys... Since I am toting a 24' enclosed trailer now (from a 16' open), I am very nervous about setting proper tires pressures/blowouts and such. Is it best to inflate to the max listed pressure (even if the trailer is not at max load)? What is the recommendation?

[mark defer]

always run your trailer tires at the maximum listed air pressure. on the other hand, always run your vehicle tires at the vehicle manufacturers recommendation listed on the door jamb.

mark defer

[Wes Allen]

Good thread guys! I also blew a trailer tire this weekend! I was coming back from the National at Gingerman running about 80 around eleven in the evening when one let go. Hard to miss,quite dynamic. It is not much fun changing a tire in the dark with the BIG RIGS blasting by you! Some things I learned...
1. A head lamp type flashlight would be great. It beats holding a flashlight in your mouth.
2. Always make sure your spare is full of air. I had to plumb up the nitrogen tank.
3. I as well thought the wooden ramps I use to load the car would lift the trailer enough,however with all the weight on one tire you cannot get the new tire on without a jack.
4. Always carry a bottle jack! I was lucky and used the truck jack.
5. Use the refective triangles for warnings the truckers seem to understand them.
6.Buy speed rated trailer tires???
Towing the stupid trailer around the country is the most dangerous part of the weekend!
Enjoy Wes Allen

[Richard Learned]

Mark;
I agree in most instances with your post. However, running the tire at the sidewall listed max can beat the heck out of it if you are way under the load carrying capacity of the tire at that particular air pressure. One function of air pressure is to set the standing radius of the tire while it is performing it's duties. The tire was designed to run at a certain radius that insures the assembly flexes properly and flexes in the proper area of the sidewall. Air pressure above that designed for the load being carried changes the hinge points of the sidewall and can (although there are many variables here) lead to a "chopped out" tire. The sidewall listing is for comparative purposes only and proper inflation should come from the pressure/load tables that are listed by the manufacturer. My suggestion would be to know what the tire is carrying, ask for the manufacturer's data sheet for that particular tire and adjust air pressure accordingly. And...since 99% of the public (including us car nuts) are never going to do that...follow Mark's advice.
In case anyone is wondering, I worked for Michelin from 1972 till 1982 and my job was to advise, gather and administer tire data for large fleets in efforts to reduce their cost per mile. I honestly can't remember when I last had a trailer or car flat. I believe it was sometime in the late 70's and that had more to do with the landing...I might have been driving a little over my head or what was left of my head at the time if you follow my drift (pun intended).

Richard L

[mark defer]

i agree, if you're running a long distance with an empty trailer, it would make sense to lower the pressures to match the reduced load. but how many of us ever do that. more often than naught we're running at or above the max load of the tires. so inflate to the max, check 'em before leaving home and before leaving the track. it doesn't hurt to check the torque at those times as well.

mark d

[Joefisherff]

I carry my floor jack with me in my trailer just for this type of thing, it's easy to roll in and out and manuever under the trailer. I blew two tires out 2 years ago on the way to Mid-Ohio, I think once the tires reach their end of life they go pretty closely to each other. I now carry 2 spares and rotate the tires and spares. I like the advice of replacing after 5 years regardless. Goodyear Marathons are POS, I'll never buy them again.

[racer27]

My trailer dealer agrees with Joe. My local trailer dealer told me that the Goodyear Marathons are standard equiptment on trailers since they are the lowest cost option. When he was prepping my trialer for the 1500 round trip to Indy Earlier this year, he advised swapping the tires for Trailer Specific Radials or an Alternate Brand Bias Ply. As soon as they show enough wear, that is what we willl do.

[Richard Learned]

Mark;
You're spot on. Check the air, check the air and...oh...don't forget to check the air. The air is what carries the weight and it's real easy to read the sidewall while you're down there with your gauge and so you don't even have to remember, it'll be fine. All that tire tech talk that I wrote about was if you are trying to squeeze the last mil per mile out of a fleet. If some poor sucker is running a couple hundred tractors and trailers it's amazing how it adds up. For the rest of us, run 'em up and be sure and check the air. I do not keep meticulous records on my tires, I just do exactly as Mark suggests and it really has been nearly 30 years since I changed any tires other than those on one of my race cars or for someone I was crewing for. Now of course everyone realizes I'm gonna run over some piece of angle iron next time to the track!!!!!!!!!!!

Richard L

[glenn cooper]

Hey Russ, Glad to hear you didn't end up in the ditch, or worse.Yes, I had some trailer tire issues a few years ago w/ my (heavy as hell / all steel) 24 foot Pace Shadow; it seemed I had at least 1, if not 2 blowout's/trip. I also carried 2 spares. The tires were Carlisle's and although they were rated ST rated, once I swapped to Goodyear ST's all was well.I think it's actually pretty common to have the rear's blow. My theory is the front runs over and flicks up the nail/FOD, which then puntures the rear.I traveled w/ a HD floor jack for just this reason, and it "lived" right near the side door, in a special little bracket I made. The spare wheels were located just behind the left wheel well, held in place w/ a m/c tiedown through a pair of eyebolts - easy access via the rear ramp door.REAL GOOD idea about the emergency triangles. Anything to be more visible... A few years ago, I had a flat w/ my little Toyota truck on I-85, south of Road Atlanta. It took awhile for the cage drivers to let me over, and when I finally was able to stuff some of the jakes and get to the right, I'm almost out of shoulder and under a bridge. The breeze off the Big Rigs was scary, and while I'm tearing into it, some guy shows up outta nowhere w/ a flashlight. I was actually a little spooked, cause I kinda pride myself on being very aware of my surroundings. Well I get it all bolted back up, put the tools into the cab and when I turn back to grab the bum wheel and hoist it into the bed, the dude was gone; vanished. Talk about Guardian Angels!!GC

[TimW]

I'd be real careful using something that puts all the load on one axle. Something - the axle, the tires, or something else - will almost certainly be loaded past its limits.

I would think a static load rating on an axle would be able to handle twice that rating dynamically, like the load from a pot hole or even normal vibration. Not to mention the safety factor on the dynamic loads would make a static overage likely not a problem.