FF Wiring

[1 lapdown]

I'm re-wiring my Winkelmann FF. I have a Rain Light, Oil Pressure Warning Ligh Starter Solinoide and Ignition (power). Should I make up a power bus or just take the hot feed directly off the power switch ? Also should any of these wires have an in-line fuse? Or are fuses just another thing to go wrong and break durnig a race?

[TimW]

It depends on how many individual wires you have coming off your switch. If its only 2 then probably not worth a bus. If its over 4 then a bus might be helpful. I would not recommend a Radio Shack bus, but rather one made for high vibration environments, either from Newark/InOne or Spruce.

Put a fuse in line with the tail light, as far forward in the car as possible. That wire will get smashed some day.

Tim

[JHaydon]

We also sell a nice terminal block (our part #4415:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=1452 ).

I have used it on a formula car (with multiple gauges of wire -- I made it wayyy too complicated) and on a car stereo with about 67 speakers. Neither application gave me any trouble.

[kea]

If I am going to send battery power to numerous points, I use a vibration mount to do it. A rubber block with a metal threaded stud on each end. Screw one into the chassis and use the other end for your power take-off. This hold up quite well and is easier on a switch than attaching multiple wires to one leg.
We do offer a do-it-yourself wiring kit for formula cars, see our web site
Keith
Averill Racing Stuff,Inc.
www.racing-stuff.com

[JHaydon]

Keith, there's a fine line between having a brilliant idea... and having an idea so brilliantly simple that the rest of us feel stupid.

Now I'm almost looking forward to rewiring my own car again.

[kea]

Stop, you made me blush.
Keith

[Jeff Owens]

I followed Keiths advice and setup and everything worked out nicely. It almost looks like he did it for me The wiring harness, insulated stud and switches are very nice. There is plenty of wire and several different guages to meet your needs. Have fun!!!!!

[Rick Kirchner]

I combined the advantages of a Bus and a terminal strip by using a 4-pole single throw switch. Four different circuits go through four different sets of contacts, so there's less possibility of shutting everything down if a contact fails. I used a sealed MS switch to prevent moisture from corroding the insides. I ran the rain light through a aircraft circuit breaker, more rugged than a fuse, and serves as it's own switch.

[1 lapdown]

This was my first time using this forum. Thank's to all who responded! I like the idea of a isolated rubber bushing to group wires. A very clean idea to be sure.

[Steve Demeter]

The true master of wiring is Ray Grienke.

If you have seen his work it ia true art.

[Joefisherff]

Ray is also the father of the Ultimate Rain Light - Our saviour from getting plowed during driving rain races! He did my harness 7 years ago and it is still performing flawlessly!

[Mark H]

8 pole RS buss, 1 wire from the master switch to the front, plenty of power for..ingition, AMB, rain light, warning lights, starter switch, tach (if you have done away with the Jones) and anything else you need.
If your tires are balanced right and your connections are done right ie. shrink wrap and US made ends, they will not come loose.
Use split loom and tie wraps to the few wires going to the rear and you will have many years of trouble free racing as we have.
Fuses are for street cars, wanna loose a race over a 10 cent part well thats a fuse?

This stuff is very easy to do just plan it out, lay it out and pull on each crimp (or sodder each crimp) and it will last 10 yrs.
We can do this stuff.... engines no, tranny rebuilds maby, wiring yes.

[kea]

Steve and Joe,
Ray is the one who created our wiring kit.
Keith

[Steve Demeter]

Which would explain why it is so good. The master created it. That says it all.

[Ray Grienke]

Thanks fro the kind words, gentlemen.

[Ray Grienke]

I'm working on a modular loom for formula cars, and like your comments. Concept is a power loom that provides power to the coil, starter solenoid, rain light, and a lead for the AMB transponder. It also has a power lead with switched power (from the ignition switch), unswitched power (from battery, actually from the starter lead) and a ground. This universal power lead then provides power to a custom instrument loom. The instrument loom(s) are built according to your needs, from simple two wire lead to an AIM, Stack or Pi dash, to individual leads for elec trach, oil pressure gauge and light, water temp gauge and light, (and any other type of warning device you may have).

Loom is made with Raychem wire (this is magic stuff!) and heatshrink. The looms come with extended leads and a terminal supply kit. The idea is that you install the loom, cut the individual leads to length, crimp on the terminals and heat shrink them, and you have a completed custom loom.

Looms will probably be sold by Keith...

Ray

[Joefisherff]

Ray,

That is a great idea, particularly if you have a order form with checkboxes to jog our memory on what all we need wires for. Don't forget a positive drop off for an ignition box and a possible tach feed from the ignition box now that they are legal in FF.

[Ray Grienke]

Joe,

I've gone as far as giving part numbers to all the variants - so when Kieth posts it on his site, download the instruction sheet before ordering.

As far as the spark box, the coil lead is simply switched 12V power - you can power a coil or box the same way. The tach lead is part of the aux loom, depending on the type of tach or digital dash you have. I use a 22 gauge shielded cable for the tach lead to cut down on noise getting into radios as well as getting in to cause false tach readings.

Where are we on the rain light issue ? Do I owe you one ? Brain is still scrambled since LeMans.

[Joefisherff]

Ray,

I owe you some pics on the rainlight, I'll take them and send them out.

Thanks!

Joe

[Joefisherff]

In typical Ray Grienke modesty he failed to mention that he was the electrician on the winning Audi R8 at Lemans this year. This exemplifies his craftmanship and attention to detail.

http://www.championracing.net/

[formulasuper]

The key to a durable wiring assembly is a high quality crimper. The professional aviation kind with a ratcheting handle. Once the terminal is crimped you cannot pull it off.

[Ray Grienke]

Scott is absolutely correct... I use crimp terminals with heat shrink as well. Crimp them properly to make a good mechanical connection, and the heat shrink seals the terminal for a water resistant connection (for all practical purposes, they are water tight, but the manufacturer won't spec them to IP67 (watertight) specs.

The only downside to these crimpers is their cost - it's possible to spend several hundred dollars per tool to match specialized connectors. The correct tool is absolutely necessary for MIL_SPEC connectors.

[FC63F]

Ray wired my Crossle 63F and it is a work of art - I love the little tags on the wires and such - very neat and clean as compared to the original POS - and yes, this was obtained through Averill. Ray had more neat tools than I could have imagined with him to rewire my car. I would hate to guess the cost of the cool tools.

David Keep
CFC #63