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  1. #1
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    Having a difficult time finding a source for steel hex stock. Found lots of suppliers for aluminum, brass, and stainless hex but not steel. I'm fab'ing replacement steering rods for my DB-1 and want to use 1/2" hex at the rod ends. I found a source for 12L14 steel that machines nicely but is not weldable.

    Any suggestions or ideas appreciated.

    Ken

  2. #2
    Contributing Member T492's Avatar
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    09.29.02
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    Ken, try AEDMotorsports....

    AED

    Vic
    I have seen the enemy.....and he is ME!!
    Vic Culbertson

  3. #3
    Contributing Member Garey Guzman's Avatar
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    Ken,
    I got new ones from Ray at Protech. I think they are the DB-4's, which are longer then OE DB-1.
    Garey Guzman
    FF #4 (Former Cal Club member, current Atlanta Region member)
    https://redroadracing.com/ (includes Zink and Citation Registry)
    https://www.thekentlives.com/ (includes information on the FF Kent engine, chassis and history)

  4. #4
    Senior Member Dave Hopple's Avatar
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    Pro-Werks tube adapters

    Ken, these work great,(might be too big for the frt DB-1 Steering links) I built a full set of steering and push rods for my car using 4130 (.058)tubing, cut it to your required length and weld in the tube inserts LH hex, RH non hex, (it also helps you remember which one is LH when making adjustments on the rod ends) you can buy them at the http://www.chassisshop.com/

    I'm suprised you can't find steel hex, any metal supply place should have at least mild steel. You could use tapped 6061 Aluminum (mill flats on the ends) tube for the frt steering links, I've seen guys use that on DB-1's -Dave

    P.S. going to aero tube is my next project

    [size="1"][ August 04, 2004, 10:04 AM: Message edited by: Dave Hopple ][/size]

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Did you try Mcmaster- Carr? www.mcmaster.com

    John

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    08.18.02
    Location
    Indy, IN
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    When making LH threaded bosses, cut a shallow groove in the OD to signify that it is LH thread. This is standard practice in pneumatics and hydraulics by most companies. The groove doesn't have to be very big - just large enough to see easily. Go look at your oxy/acetelyne torches to see an example.

    In pushrods, drill & tap the bosses AFTER welding to insure that the hole isn't skewed a bit from welding draw. Having the rod end mis-aligned to the tube will increase stresses dramatically. On steering and toe links it doesn't matter.

    On pushrod bosses: they don't have to be very long or have a ton of thread as it is the jamb nut threads that are taking all of the load.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Holland, MI
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    Originally posted by Dave Hopple:
    Pro-Werks tube adapters

    Ken, these work great,(might be too big for the frt DB-1 Steering links) I built a full set of steering and push rods for my car using 4130 (.058)tubing, cut it to your required length and weld in the tube inserts LH hex, RH non hex, (it also helps you remember which one is LH when making adjustments on the rod ends) you can buy them at the http://www.chassisshop.com/

    I'm suprised you can't find steel hex, any metal supply place should have at least mild steel. You could use tapped 6061 Aluminum (mill flats on the ends) tube for the frt steering links, I've seen guys use that on DB-1's -Dave

    P.S. going to aero tube is my next project
    I have used these tube adaptors to fab a new set of suspension arms for my F500. Very nicely made parts. It helps that the Chassis Shop is about an hour from my house. They specialize in Sand Drag cars, but their stuff translates into a lot of other race stuff well.

    They were working on similar ends for aero tube last time I was there. Helps that they are about an hour from my house!

    Phil Green
    Western Michigan Region

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