Ok, my tach died. I just quit while doing a lap. I had to rely on "feel" to finish the race.
I looked at the cable at both ends...conected well. Now, before I start ripping things apart, what should I be looking for? I have never taken one apart before. I was thinking the drive at the engine could be the cause. Will there be be little bits of torn metal in there? How do I check if the unit itselt is faulty?
Harry, I have a Jones tach in the trailer at BW. I paid $50 bucks for it and it won't fit my car. Your welcome to use it to check your car out.
Ken
The drive is the likely culprit. The gears and/or bushings inside die from lack of lubrication. Just pull it off the oil pump and take it apart to see what's wrong. It's not very hard to do.
The place to start is to undo the cable at the tach and start the engine. If the cable is turning, the problem is in the tach. If it is not turning the problem is in the drive at the engine.
sure i look at the tach in the Crossle.....but frankly with enough seat time, I hear the moment - just like when you play music enough and you know when the guitar is in tune from just one note of reference. The player of the upright bass or the trombone does not need reference points like frets or lines on a tube with enough practice. what i'm saying is the tach is a help but often i can hear when to shift because i've gotten familiar with the motor. I'd rather watch the track and look into the corner and become familiar with reference points to turn in, brake, etc. the MG tach never got reconnected years ago, no problem but then MG stands for "might go"
Get a proper Tacho or get a shiftlight
Henrik
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I pulled the cable from the car last night. When I turn one end (the tach end) the other end(the drive end) does not move and I hear a clicking sound. Sounds like the cable is broken. Does this mean that the drive, too, is probably broken?
The only thing certain is that the cable is broken. The drive, barring an unlikely coincidence, is probably OK.
However, I would pull off the drive and check it, too, assuming you can get to it. Once you have it off, you can lube it, replace the pump seal, etc.
If the drive is on the front cover, be careful. Many of the drives bolted to the front cover had bolts from the inside that weren't captured. When you tried to take the drive off the bolts spun on the inside, requiring you to take the front cover off. You can take the cable tang, or a small screw driver and insert it into the drive. If it turns with the engine, just get the cable repaired.
HMMMM...
I didn't know that!
One of the happier days of my life was replacing the mechanical unit (drive/cable/tach) with an electric set up. No more oil leaks pass the worn out seals in the drive unit. I think a new cable is about $80. I cut the drive end cap (that holds the cable on to the drive) off the broken cable and placed a rubber washer without a hole into the cap. Screwed that on to the drive to seal it so I didn't have to remove the front cover to remove the drive. Remove the drive when you rebuild engine.
dave jalen
Last year I converted from mechanical to electic gages and digital electronic tach. In only 2 sessions, I watched the lights go out on the Nordskog digital, and decided to use the MyChron 2 unit.
After a day of use, I'm converted to a digital display. Out with round gages, and no more mechanical gages at all.
gm
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