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Finding a push/pull-reset switch is not the problem, finding a compact one will be. They are generally for Industrial usage, and as such are designed to be bulky and highly visible....

I like a threaded turnbuckle with jam nuts for adjustment. It seems like the split tube would be more likely to slip. My RF78 just has a threaded shifter lever and jam nut, so you have to disconnect...

Sure, Formula 1 is "just a car", I think he should start there.

Ditto, mine said no motorized vehicles are covered, race cars, ATV's, whatever. I don't believe my trailer is covered when sitting unhooked.

I also agree starting in an F1000 is really jumping...

I get the lift part, but calling it a "10 Year project waiting to get those tools" has me wondering how they're going to afford building a FB. BTW, not to be insult the OP, but it appears he didn't...

This comment has me confused. You don't have the tools to do a Restomod, but you feel building a FB from scratch is easier?

Now that you mention it, I did weld a piece onto the end of the detent to take up some play, requiring less linkage travel. Just remember to re-drill the vent hole.

The solution is to change the lockout spring, there is no way you should be over-stressing 1/2" steel tubing. My RF'78 had 1/2" x .095" mild steel tubing with no issues (now 5/8" x .058 4130 to save...

Yeah, My RF78 came with that "feature" when I bought it. I kept wondering why the water always had some oil floating on top!

I'm just finishing up a heavily modified RF80 frame. Try and think ahead as far as possible, especially as far as driver ergonomics and the cockpit. Make/mock up the seat and controls as early as...

Here's some to search through, though most seem to be larger than 3/8".
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=clevis+link+bracket

Ah, brain fart. It doesn't matter where the pivot is in the tube, as long as the distance to the clevises doesn't change. Thanks !

Thanks, I'll try that when I have it assembled. That will leave some "slack", but I guess in practice there is no problem with the pivot walking, and the bias varying?

I have a question on the subject. When adjust the Pegasus part to the stated 2.5" Centerline, there is space between the clevis and pivot tube, which would allow the adjustment to move about 1/4" ....

I'm not getting why you would need a double-walled skin? Weld the .050 fuel cell back to the front side of the bulkhead tubes, and it will also serve as your lower firewall. No need for a second skin.

I agree, I get in the HAN's on, helmet off, so I can see what I'm doing getting belted in. I have no problems getting my helmet/tethers on.

I like Richard's idea, something that can just be yanked in an emergency, no fiddling and turning. I think they also make hitch pins the pull to release, instead of pushing.

I don't know what you have, but I have been thinking about using these:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4660

You can add a strap to make it easier to grip.

Thanks Dustin.

Thanks, Ii that in fact .5" x 1" ? As a "backyard" engineer/fabricator, I'm always interested in materials selection.

If I might ask, what are the dimensions of your smaller rectangular tubing braces, around .5"x1"x.049" ?

Yes, on many chassis the frame members are too low to support a bolster of sufficient height, so structure would have to be added. Do you have any pictures of the "bullets" and front retention...

So if you can only fit 2" or 2.5" of foam in an existing chassis, wouldn't that be better than leaving no lateral support/protection? I assume you leave ~ 1" gap between the helmet and bolster?

I assume the whole surround has an Al backing plate, how thick is it ? How is the rear of the surround retained ? I'll be building my own soon, and could use some advice.
Thanks
Steve

A variation on the theme, I have a squarish Font #88 , taping off segments to create almost any number required.

I have also heard that overtightening the jam nut on rod ends can lead to failure. Maybe use some locktite, with reduced torque? IIRC NMB goldline/silverline are the strongest, but ery pricey.

It may even work to do the rosette welds mentioned on all the tubes, but leave the outside 1/2" long. Then after welding them, you could work your way around "rolling up' the sides with a hammer, and...

Yeah, I mounted mine on the dash with rubber mounts.

That's why I use an external jump battery for starts.

Ditto what Dick said, But I put my disconnect in the dash, so I can disconnect it while driving. My next version will probably have a toggle switch bypass in the dash. I've run the DRL-3 for several...

I would also strongly recommend testing some sample pieces to failure. It's easy to get a pretty good looking fillet that's not fully bonded to the parent metal, creating a very weak joint.

I bought a boot from McMaster Carr, cut it to length, and fasten the ends with Ty-wraps.

I've seen just the bearing cup from various sources, though without any "plate" or stub for A-arm mounting.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1825-150

You can fix the pedal access problem by modifying the brake pedals, adding a 2nd pad to the left of the steering shaft. I assume you're talking about an early "club" FF.

The maximum pressure is rarely recommended. Steve has it right, look for a sticker on the door, door sill, or possibly in the glovebox. ( and of course the owners manual )

Thanks for the clarification. Neil Robert's DB1 build site shows the large stresses placed on the cockpit surround tubing.

Thanks Rick & Steve. I'm trying to update my RF80 with a similar configuration, but is a bit difficult within the existing cockpit layout. As alluded to in that other thread, the frame of this year...

What wall thickness is generally used for the upper cockpit perimeter bar, as on a DB-1/6, Citation, etc. ?

FWIW, I bought a used FF set several years ago, one of which had a puncture. He sent a replacement right away, no questions asked.

I was going to ask the same question. Is there a better moderate cost solution to Mitchell?

Have you checked ATL, they have a mini fill neck that looks like it may work ( or Fuel Safe ).

I've got it now, thanks.

Thanks steve,

A question or two, my cockpit is "lined" with .063 Aluminum panels, could I use that to mount the lever & drill detent holes? The holes would wear quicker, but I shouldn't be...

No problem, I appreciate your taking the time!

Steve,
do you happen to have a picture of your setup? I'm looking at building a rear adjuster.
Thanks,
Steve