Printable View
Recently someone recommended a 10 micron filter to avoid problems with clogged injectors. That makes sense, but are there down sides, such as more restrictive flow, chance of filter clogging or frequent service?
Any other bits of advice, such as best element material?
My current filter is blue (Earl's?), smallish with -6AN ends and a bronze sintered element (unknown micron size). I cleaned it and it looked fine, but now I'm wondering if I should replace it before it's difficult to access.
TIA.
I'm getting ready to buy a filter. Do I really need 10 micron. I'd like to use the Earl's 40 micron due to size, but if I need to use the 10 micron, I'll have to find space.
I tried to look this up on the SportsRacer site. Their search engine is a PITA!:mad:
Guys -
there was a discussion some while back on the SR forum (yes, the search engine is completely broken), which essentially distilled down to 35um was probably OK, but several preferred 10um filters.
I have no direct experience yet, but I am going to run a 10um filter on my Hayabusa powered Radical. A nice, inexpensive part was recommended to me from Rex Marine: http://www.rexmar.com/page201.html (big one at the bottom).
I ran the same filter with K&N branding several years ago on my 400hp Eclipse, and it worked well - no fuel pressure drop issues. So, on a 200hp bike motor, should be fine.
Hopefully some with direct experience will chime in.
-Jake
I'd like to find a high quality fuel filter that you could see through and tell if it was dirty without disassembling (besides the cheap dangerous glass ones).
It's a shame about the sports racing web site. You know it's chocked full of great information, with no easy way to find any of it. The search engine hasn't worked there for a long time.
The screen type are 149 micron...
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3214
FE cars came with the screen type. I sent my injectors off to be serviced this year, and they required cleaning based on the receipt inspection/test. I replaced the filter with a 10 micron unit. Pretty hi-flow pump on the cars, and there was no pressure drop at the rail. I think 10 micron is what you want for injectors....don't want to plug one and have a cylinder run lean.
Best regards,
Eric
Based on my experience in an industrial environment, there is a lot of misinformation about aftermarket filter information. The aftermarket and OE filter industry is driven by cost. If specifications are to be followed, the manufacturer should comply. If there are no specifications followed or given, buyer beware.
The short answer would be to buy a motorcycle OE filter assembly, install it on the discharge of the injector pump. These are usually a good quality pleated paper element. I would also put a strainer sock on the pickup in the cell to hold back the sediment and deteriorating cell foam. Changing the fuel filter once a year would be a conservative maintenance interval. A new filter might drop pressure 1 PSID or less across the filter. Gasoline has very low viscosity, so pressure drop with a 5-10 micron filter should be minimal.
A 35 micron size means a NOMINAL rating. It means it will capture 90-95% of particles 35 microns and above. It may pass particles as large as 80 to 100 microns. 60 micron flog is visible to the naked eye.
A 10 micron filter will capture 90-95% of particles 10 microns and above. It will pass particles as large as 35-40 microns. Filter efficiency is driven by a combination of the media material, the surface area, and the rated flow.
Fuel injection systems return excess fuel flow back to the tank, so fuel is filtered, some returned to the tank and filtered again as the fuel is used.
High end filters also carry a beta rating for efficiency (like aircraft hydraulics and fuel systems). Things are complicated by single pass and multi pass ratings.
There's no question you need to be running a filter rated for fuel injection systems and the ones that have worked the best use 10 micron fabric media. Anything for carbs should not be used....you will have clogged injectors (been there). The problem we found when trying to source economical filters is that most don't list whether they are for carbs or FI. There's really two options:
Matt Conrad
- A really nice unit like those from Aeromotive, Fuel Labs, etc. which has a replaceable element. By the time you get the right fittings and the unit itself, these can run as much as $200 and the elements are around $15 when you need to replace them. The unit I have on my car works well, but is fairly large.
- A "throw-away" type unit found on most passenger cars. I believe we finally found one for production cars that was adaptable to our -6AN fittings on our fuel system and cost around $40. It was an Accel unit that you can buy through Jegs or Summit. We have seen some for as low as $15 that would work, but only have hose barb ends....which I don't like to use in our application (too many burnt up cars).
Phoenix Race Works, LLC
Contact the injection guru Tim Marren
http://www.injector.com/
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
"trick flow" 10micron available, 6an, $36.00
I think that one is 40 microns, not 10. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by carnut169
Russ,
I'm not at the shop, but I believe the link below is for the one we use on our production cars. I think it is actually a 5 micron unit and is good to 100psi. It is also fairly small compared to some of the others as well.
We also needed the saginaw to -6an fittings (which are actually more than the filter...but you'll only buy them once) ACC-74721.
ACC-74720
Matt Conrad
Phoenix Race Works, LLC
The 10micron trick flow is $69.95 at summit.
Doesn't appear to be available with -6AN fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickshoe
Matt, thanks for those links. Looks like a decent option.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Conrad
Thanks Matt! There is a Bosch part number to cross reference. 71-064 The fittings are expensive, but at a one-time expense, no big deal. If anybody wants the Bosch units, I can get them for about 1/2 the price of the Accel unit. Thanks again for everybody's help. This site rocks! :cool:
The descriptions says ypu have the choice of 10, 40 or 100 at the bottom... now I realize they were talking about the line. You could do the 10micron and an adapter or they have others.Quote:
Originally Posted by RussMcB
Ah, I see.Quote:
Originally Posted by carnut169
Looks like a phone call to Summit would be needed to see what part number to order for a 10 micron filter with -6AN fittings.
Hate to be repetitive, but the filter I mentioned from Rex Marine (formerly a K&N part), is 10 micron, $50ish, and has -6AN ends. :thumbsup:
:)
-Jake
Ian, is the Bosch PN 71-064? I couldn't find that anywhere via Google.Quote:
Originally Posted by sidney
I think I've found reasonably priced fittings. Does it look like two of these would work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Seems odd that Summit sells a pair for $38 when you can buy one for $6.25.
Jake - the Rex Marine sounds like a good option, too. I think the price is around $60, which includes the -6 AN ends. Replacement elements are $16 ea.
Russ,Quote:
Originally Posted by RussMcB
Sorry, try it with no dashes -- 71064. It should come up. The fittings look like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294906509
Your fitting selection should also work fine
I hope the original poster doesn't mind this thread hijack. :-).
I'm converting to a remote oil filter to give me more room for a new header, and to get the oil filter away from the heat. I'm looking at options for mounting it.
Anyone use or recommend something like this in line filter? Any micron size recommendations for our engine oil filtering?
TIA.
Where are you sourcing the sandwich plate Russ?
Russ,
We've used that same filter on our turbo Hayabusa for about a year, and the oil has stayed nice and clean so far.
Marty
Peter D Motorsports.Quote:
Originally Posted by carnut169
http://peterdmotorsports.com/parts-d...products_id=50
Russ,
We just bought an 8 micron in-line CM oil filter from Hoerr Race Products. Shipment was fast and the price was the lowest I found via Google. The lady at CM was super nice when I talked to her. The other bonus over the one pictured above is that it has O-ring boss port interfaces, so you can use a straight, 45 or 90 degree fitting for more flexible plumbing -- oh, and it's cheaper too;) .
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
P.S. If you use the web store, you probably can't do it from work (that's the way you get the lowest shipping). Their system does not work well with firewalls.:meatball:
New question regarding remote oil filter lines:
Looks like I can fit anthing between -8 and -16. What's the recommended size? How small can I go without restricting flow?
Currently, the hose between the oil tank and pump is -10. On the scavenge side, I have -8.
That's kind of an odd relationship you have between the pressure and scavenge lines; normally the scavenge lines are bigger, since they are pumping an air/oil mix.Quote:
Originally Posted by RussMcB
On our Hayabusa we have -10 pressure lines and -12 scavenge lines; I honestly don't remember what we had on the GSXR, but that is moot anyway because we're going back to a wet sump for the '07 motor.
Marty
Yeah, that's crossed my mind before, but that is how the dry sump system was designed and delivered to me. I assume the designer knew what was needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by martyb
The engine's internal passages to and from the oil filter are 14mm. That tells me -10AN lines for the remote filter should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by RussMcB
Indeed! (re: This site rocks!).Quote:
Originally Posted by sidney
Thanks for the great leads, Matt & Ian. Also thanks to John, Ian's dad, for shipping the Bosch unit to me.
I was able to find the 16mm x1.5 o-ring fittings for a cheaper price (Summit PN EAR-991955ERL).
It all worked out great. I'm using the old screen filter to catch junk before the low pressure pump, and the new, smaller micron Bosch filter after the high pressure pump.
Glad it worked out for ya Russ. Happy New Year to everybody! Good luck in '08!