Preping RF95, a few questions

So I'm working on getting my RF94/95 ready for the track, it needs a few things checked over.
I hope to get it to atleast one event this year.

First one is for noise I'm planning to use just the small supertrap muffler On the back of the car. Anyone ever gone this route? How quiet does it get?

I noticed my oil pump pulley was well worn. I tried to find a replacement on Pegasus , but did not see any 34 tooth pulleys like this one.
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...637F8ABCCC.jpg
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...DFFBC5F4D5.jpg

The car has two batteries on board. Would I still need to worry about draining them at a trackday type event? Should I plan on having a charger?

I'm sure I will have more questions.
First time for an all out racecar, I built my spec miata, but that is reall almost a street car

Did you look in the engine parts section of the catalog? That looks like the oil pump drive pulley not the oil pump pulley. Two on board batteries are typically used for lighter weight drivers....effective ballast. Make sure both are in good, known condition and you can skate by without a charger. However, I would never go to the track without a charger and a spare battery.

I definitely pulled it off the dry sump pump on the bottom left of the motor.
The pulley up higher that it feeds off of still looks good.
the engine in the car should be an elite, but its a few years old. its not the same as the Quicksilver engine I also have.

oh, any suggestions on a better catch can? this one leaks oil out the bottom onto the diffuser, and looks like its about to crack

your pump is a TDC. Call FastForward in Sand City CA for a replacement pulley. catch cans can be almost anything but the thicker the better for longevity. They have a decent mass of hot oil sloshing around and thin stuff doesn't last. Don't know what our usual suppliers carry, but the circle track crowd has decent ones, try Jegs, Summit, etc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by btjsb9

....First one is for noise I'm planning to use just the small supertrap muffler On the back of the car. Anyone ever gone this route? How quiet does it get?....

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We used just a small SuperTrap on a Reynard and it was about 101 dB with NO baffles and a 103 dB club limit. If that limit will work for you, take along some baffles just in case.

For some of the GLC racers at Waterford, we use the 5" disc holder (no megaphone) model Supertrapp. Weld on a pipe that can slide over your exhaust and clamp it on (good band style, not muffler clamp). Use all 12 discs, more disc's = more noise. No jettine issues either way.
We still use/sell a clear, rectangular over-flow bottle. SCCA rules required a way to see volume of contents.
As noted, call Oil pump manufacture for pulleys, etc.

24 ounce beer cans (can't get lighter-paint or cover with tape to hide can origination), one oil, one water, ty wrap the water over-pressure hose in the can or it might squirt on the back of your neck should it be behind u and u have steam ...... minumum- jumper cables, can charge from car for a few minutes after sessions battery permitting (most take full charge but check), have at it speed junkie!! .....

technically neither is quart puke tank, but who cares these days, don't like the water spill hose deal sucking up spilled oil when cooling, although may lube the waterpump, LOL .....................

both batteries will have to b same condition or same voltage or immediately the lower one will suck amps, doesn't go to starter when needed, will then balance (almost instantly) and hopefully start, that's a warning that a crudy jump battery no matter how big may not help if it's sitting below onboard or below 12

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner

your pump is a TDC. Call FastForward in Sand City CA for a replacement pulley. catch cans can be almost anything but the thicker the better for longevity. They have a decent mass of hot oil sloshing around and thin stuff doesn't last. Don't know what our usual suppliers carry, but the circle track crowd has decent ones, try Jegs, Summit, etc

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If the oil baffling system is good, then there should be almost NO oil in the catch tank. I have never had more than a tablespoon of oil in my catch tank unless I accidentally overfilled the dry sump. I use a rectangular HDPE bottle I got from McM, http://www.mcmaster.com/#4293T79 . It has worked perfectly for 6 years now.

Photo below:

You're right Dave. I just subscribe to the "fill it till it comes out" school of oil level management. So by the end of the weekend I usually have 12 oz or so in there.

Nice mount!

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Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner

You're right Dave. I just subscribe to the "fill it till it comes out" school of oil level management. So by the end of the weekend I usually have 12 oz or so in there.

Nice mount!

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:D
What you don't see is the 1" diameter "Lord" rubber mount supporting the tray keeping things from fatiguing.

Why not use the most lightweight highly engineered fluid container on the planet. :p

Aaron

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Originally Posted by kea

For some of the GLC racers at Waterford, we use the 5" disc holder (no megaphone) model Supertrapp. Weld on a pipe that can slide over your exhaust and clamp it on (good band style, not muffler clamp). Use all 12 discs, more disc's = more noise. No jettine issues either way.
We still use/sell a clear, rectangular over-flow bottle. SCCA rules required a way to see volume of contents.
As noted, call Oil pump manufacture for pulleys, etc.

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I called the manufacturer, he has none, and wont have them for 6+ weeks.
I am looking into making my own.

on the supertrapp I see a few options on the site,

wouldn't the 5" ADAPTOR ONLY FOR 2.5" PIPE 507-2500 $69.00 be what I need?
my understanding is it is an adapter to fit over the outside of the end of my tailpipe?

I think that part is the disc holder only (without 12 disc, nuts & bolts, end cap, mud guard), 2.5" ID, to be weld on the end of the pipe. That is not something to slide over your pipe.

I'd use the worn pulley before making my own, and wait the six weeks. It's lasted this long, and if you lose a belt, you'll probably lose the motor.

I think the pullys can also be ordered thru SPI, but everything I've purchased from them has been very expensive for what you get.

if not mentioned above, call engine builders for pulley, Quicksilver Frederick, md .... Elite, Il ....etc.

I tried, no one had it.

Moving on,
It's nice to work at a place with a full CnC shop
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...91C708E0EE.jpg
New end plates for my 96 front wings and some end plates for the new pulley.

And some pulley material.
I think I have enough to make a spare. ;)

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...9B6782C06C.jpg

Hopefully get it finished next week, and can work on getting the car back together

Quick question

im working on getting my replacement homologation papers, and new log book for the car.

anyone have this information on a RF-94?

Roll Bar Specifications
Material Specifications (SAE, etc.):____________________________________
Main Hoop: Diameter ______(in or mm), Wall Thickness _____(in or mm)
Front Hoop: Diameter ______(in or mm), Wall Thickness _____(in or mm)
Braces: Diameter ______(in or mm), Wall Thickness _____(in or mm)

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Originally Posted by btjsb9

Quick question

im working on getting my replacement homologation papers, and new log book for the car.

anyone have this information on a RF-94?

Roll Bar Specifications
Material Specifications (SAE, etc.):____________________________________
Main Hoop: Diameter ______(in or mm), Wall Thickness _____(in or mm)
Front Hoop: Diameter ______(in or mm), Wall Thickness _____(in or mm)
Braces: Diameter ______(in or mm), Wall Thickness _____(in or mm)

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Im assuming this would be generic for all of that model year, and probably similar for all 94, 95, 96 the data that is in the front of the log book, shouldn't it?

Brian I have it in my log book for the RF96. Will send it tonight

Per my RF96 homologation papers
Roll Bar Specifications
Material Specifications (SAE, etc.):____________________________________
Main Hoop: Diameter 1.375"(in or mm), Wall Thickness .080"(in or mm)
Front Hoop: Diameter 1.250" (in or mm), Wall Thickness .064"(in or mm)
Braces: Diameter 1.000" (in or mm), Wall Thickness .048" (in or mm)

Unfortunately the Material was not filled in. Hopefully, if you need it, someone else can share that.
Hope this is helpful.

I let time fly by, and have not touched the car in a while

I am working on putting the nose box back on, and I am not sure how it goes back together.
I have a new nose box I am putting on the car, and I am making a new skid plate to go under the nose box/ front edge of chassis

does anyone have a picture of how this is supposed to be? In the Primus catalog I have there is what looks like a piece of angle steel that goes somewhere.

should I put rub blocks on the bottom of the steel plate under the nose box?

The nose was lose, and not holding the wings in the proper place, so I am working to correct this issue.

I did get the rear wing back to the one that should be on the car.
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...35659CC00E.jpg

Getting a few more things right. I still have an oil leak I need to fix too.
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...E4C44D40F5.jpg

IIRC the stock steel front skid is a odd hexagonal piece with six studs welded to it. Three go through the thin lip at the bottom of the front bulkhead after passing through the nosebox and the other goes through the nosebox. Two more go through the pan in front of the pedals and behind the bulkhead. All are held on with locknuts.

I found that to be a PITA. I put floating locking nutplates over the holes. I replaced the steel skid with two pieces of 4mm Jabroc epoxied together. That gives you the ability to use good flat head screws with enough of a countersink so that you don't grind the heads off. the Jabroc lasts longer than the steel skids. If you have a aluminum pan you'll probably need an aluminum spacer between the skid and the nosebox to make up the difference in thickness.

If you copy the stock skid design it needs two large access holes so that you can get at the front suspension pickup bolts without taking the skid off.

I used mil-spec nutplates and screws and in 13 years never so much as had one come loose. Back when I used a single 4mm thick plate I did have to drill the heads off of several screws because I ground them down to where the cross was gone.

So I am making the plate, #13

I have the 2 holes in the pan, for the back of the #13

I see 2 of the 3 bolts for the middle, and I have the bolt on the front.
I have a very dense material we use at work to build some rub blocks from.

I have attached a picture of the parts I found on an RF95 parts catalog from Primus
I am making new #12's

I understand #15, and will reuse #14

10 and 12 are what I am not understanding where it goes, or how it integrates into the nose box frame interface.

The grouping is a little misleading. Notice the word rear in the description. Not parts of the nose.

10 goes under the flywheel.
12 goes under near the main hoop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing

The grouping is a little misleading. Notice the word rear in the description. Not parts of the nose.

10 goes under the flywheel.
12 goes under near the main hoop.

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well,

the top of the page says front wing assembly...

catalog 1 me 0
I see, I feel dumb I do know about those plates, and plan to make new ones while i am at it


so is the little flange off the front of the frame only supposed to be about the thickness of the bottom of the nose box above the bottom of pan?

I see I will need to make a spacer there

My first early Van Diemen (RF96) had a hunk of angle iron attached to the lower front of the chassis. The bottom edge of the crushbox fit over the lip of that angle iron. When I got the car, I thought it was a little odd... not a very good skidplate! But... when I hit something hard in that car, the crushbox did its job, and the lip of the angle iron kept the shape of the bottom of the crushbox in place. It all worked. So I did that to my RF93 as well.

The frame flange goes inside the nosebox. it's level with the bottom of the frame tubes. with a steel pan, the nose box is about the same thickness. With an aluminum pan, you'll need about a 1/16 spacer in the shape of the skid.

I added a couple of 1"x 2" x 1/8" thick skid blocks to either side near the front corners of the lower surface of the nose box. Countersunk for (2) 10-32 screws on each block. Saved the aluminum from wearing off.

John

I should have mentioned it because I did the same!

I put on my new nose box, and bolted everything up.

This was a new Keith Averil part from what I know.

The bolt holes for the top needed to be opens up a little to allow the two mounting points to align to the frame.

And now it just doesn't seem like it fits correctly. It looks like the angle is wrong, but I think it looks too short too?
I tried to get pictures showing how I have it mounted.
It's almost like I need a spacer between the nose box mounting and frame on the two bolts.

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...7096895B4F.jpg

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...30DEA62FD8.jpg

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...FBCFD2EDCD.jpg

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...31761D524D.jpg

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...DF56910595.jpg

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...41A57A7C20.jpg

a couple of 1/4 to 3/8 spacers at the top will solve the angle problem

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Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner

a couple of 1/4 to 3/8 spacers at the top will solve the angle problem

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Yep - Mine has mil-spec washers to adjust.....

Got to remember - none of these car a identical.....

Looking at the pic of the end of the rack coming through the nose box it does appear spacing it forward would be a wise move.

Umm...slightly unrelated but...the bolt in the A arm should be head down. That way if the nut comes off (highly unlikely since its a jet nut, but...) the bolt does not drop out of the clevis. Just say'in.

The fit of the bodywork and the crush box looks typically VD.

you can't get a hex head bolt in from the top. I haven't tried a SHCS, but the angle vs. length vs head diameter produces interference when you get to the bottom hole.

Mine are nut-up too....

Drill the head and safety wire?

then the jet nut is a perfect solution. Not sure safety wire is really necessary as long as routine bolt checks are done.

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Originally Posted by Buc01

Why not use the most lightweight highly engineered fluid container on the planet. :p

Aaron

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Warning ! These containers are only good for one session, then must be discarded and replaced. Because of this, I recommend that after completing all prep for the day, properly empty at least six of them and keep for the next day.....:beer:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by btjsb9

I tried, no one had it.

Moving on,
It's nice to work at a place with a full CnC shop
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...91C708E0EE.jpg
New end plates for my 96 front wings and some end plates for the new pulley.

And some pulley material.
I think I have enough to make a spare. ;)

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...9B6782C06C.jpg

Hopefully get it finished next week, and can work on getting the car back together

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Late to the party here but these guys may have had the part in stock: http://www.weaverbrothers.com/