Anyone here converted a 2007 k7 GSXR to cable clutch to eliminate the hydraulics?
If not, does the hydraulics get in the way of front sproket changes?
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Anyone here converted a 2007 k7 GSXR to cable clutch to eliminate the hydraulics?
If not, does the hydraulics get in the way of front sproket changes?
The hydraulics don't add any work when you change the front gear. You take out the four bolts that hold the cover on over the front gear, and the hydraulics just stay attached to the cover, which can be pushed to the side while you're changing the gear.
Yes.... I have done exactly that...... swapped over from a hydraulic clutch to cable operated on an 07-08 GSXR1000.
All of the earlier GSXR's used the cable clutch, so just buy a used (eBay) sprocket cover from a cable operated model and bolt it on. I don't think the 09 and later model covers will work as they had a major change to the engine after the 08 model
I used a sprocket cover from an 01-02, because the cable came out the top and was better for my routing.
I found it to be way less hassle and significantly lighter to boot !
A worthwhile change in my opinion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by loudes13
For what it's worth, I've used a hydraulic clutch for five seasons and have never had any hassle from it, but to each his own. I haven't weighed the master cylinder, line, and slave cylinder, but I can't imagine that we're talking about several pounds of difference compared to a cable system, in light of how small the components are that make up the hydraulic system, and I'm on the 1000-lb. minimum weight for my class (P1) with a fiberglass-bodied car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Slahor
Re: Weight Savings
Peddle: Same for either option
Hydraulic line: Virtually same wt as cable
Sprocket cover: Cable cover slightly lighter then hydraulic cover + slave cylinder
Big savings is in the elimination of the hydraulic master cylinder and fluid
It ends up being a couple of pounds total reduction. I weighed all the components and saved 2-3 lbs in my application. .... but I was 30LB over min weight, so every little bit helped.
Apt topic.
I recently converted to a cable operated clutch on my Stohr F1000 w/ 07-08 GSXR1000.
I used the hydraulic clutch for 3 seasons then had 4 races in 2014 with nothing but absolute frustration. Air was constantly getting in the lines. Bleeding after every session. Even replaced all (EVERY) component front-to-back and still had air in the lines...So F-in frustrating.....
At the direction of Critter Young, I converted to a cable clutch and could not be happier. I used the 2005 GSXR1000 cable operated clutch cover. Just needed to cut the clutch push rod to a new length.
IMO, I eliminated a few potential points of failure.
As for sprocket changes, a P1 fellow Stohr owner said some have cut the covers back so far that the sprocket can be changed without removal....I'm researching that..
The stock Wilwood master cylinders are very prone to this. I did the same as you, and even posted here about it. Replaced the Wilwood with a Tilton, and never a problem after that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Revs2-12k
Works fine, did it on all my cars.Quote:
As for sprocket changes, a P1 fellow Stohr owner said some have cut the covers back so far that the sprocket can be changed without removal....I'm researching that..
-Jake
TOTALLY the way to go.
When the hyd clutch jobs first appeared on sport motorcycles back in the early 80's the whole thing smacked of "Hey, look at what our engineering department dreamed up!"
Yeah, extra weight, complexity, multiple failure points, expense - you guys are soooooo smart!
The fact is cables need maintenance and they were trying to eliminate that and provide more of a "Maintenance Free and *BNG for '83!".
When swapping on an 07 08 Gsxr 1000 the OUTER clutch pushrod gets shortened to approx 101.5mm to work with the longer INTERNAL clutch pushrod.
*Bold New Graphics
Got a pic of the shaved sprocket cover?Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeL
Bust out the bandsaw and remove the bits that are in the way, leaving just the hyd slave mount pad and three bolt holes to mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by loudes13
The lower most bolt hole is removed.
The whole area of the bolt on insulating pad is removed - just enough to get a large socket on the sprocket nut.
Not a GSXR1000 here but had exactly the same situation with my Busa powered Ralt. Even bought a new slave cylinder but still had the same problem. I could bleed the system & by the time I got to the grid it would already have air in it. Strange how it had worked fine for the first year, must have been the master cylinder going south as stated by Jake. Converted to a cable & couldn't be happier. Since the Busa never used a cable I had to make my own mounting plate with a hinged lever arm & custom length push rod.Quote:
Originally Posted by Revs2-12k
Scott, I had the exact situation on my DSR. I ran a hydraulic clutch on my old ZX10 for 18 plus years with no problems at all. Changed to a zx10R motor and it worked fine for a year or two no problems, then had exactly the same issues that you and others mention. Changed the slave, rebuilt the master, changed the flex lines (only one) and still got air. Changed to a tilton master, as did some other locals with the same issues, and problem gone.