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Can't quite figure out the right search terms, as I'm sure someone must have outlined the basic idea of this somewhere.
I'm hoping to make a new set of bodywork for my FV from an existing set of molds. Before I get too far into it, I'd love to read any tips or general ideas of how to go about this, and especially of what to expect as far as costs!
Fiber Glast has a lot of "training" available from their web site IIRC
Tiago, Contact Paul Whitworth on Vancouver Isl. I gave him a D-13 nose mold years ago. I'm sure he could be very helpful. :thumbsup:
There are some pretty helpful how-to videos on YouTube. Making molds, gelcoat, fabrication, wax 'n stuff...
Just use the search.
Yup, found some good stuff since I posted earlier! Thanks for the leads everyone.
One thing I can't seem to find much info on is the type and number of layers to use. I guess there's a trade off between cost, weight and durability that I'll have to ultimately decide on, but what's a good place to start?
Gelcoat, veil mat, and two layers of woven fabric? The woven fabric choices are pretty overwhelming, so many different styles and weights..!
I think I have a decent understanding on the process itself, but no idea on the specific materials to use, hence no idea on a realistic budget..
IMHO, leave the gelcoat out. it's heavy and fragile and you'll probably paint it some other color anyway. Most of the time a painter will use a lighter-weight high-build primer for the same reason you have gel-coat.
HOWEVER - I tried to order my new pennon bodywork sans gel-coat and he wouldn't do it. Said that you needed it for mold release. I might throw the bull**** flag on that however, since I've seen plenty of bare carbon parts from molds and he was generally disagreeable on everything else I asked him to do.
We used micro-light beads in our gel coat for our gliders. Saved weight. That was in the 80's... you probably don't need gel coat. Paint will do. Can't remember release agent. Remove as much rosin as possible. Great if you can bag your parts & pull a strong vacuum.
I've never used gel coat, but I do often use a slurry of micro-lite filler to make a paste for the first coat inside the mould. I clean and wax the mould with several coats of wax, I apply a release agent, I paint the slurry on and let it start to set, I apply one layer of mat and wet it out thoroughly with a brush, I apply one layer of cloth, wet it out thoroughly then I use paper towel to get the layup as dry as possible, get as much resin out as I possibly can. Then I wait for it to set up overnight usually. The micro-lite filler is easy to sand and accepts paint really well.
Brian
What Brian said :thumbup:
Tiago,
Do yourself a favor and buy Burt Rutans Moldless Composite Sandwich Aircraft handbook. While the focus is on moldless parts, many of the tips are simply priceless. He also discuss types of glass, how to lay pieces in the right orientation for strength, etc. I think the handbook is $20 at Aircraft Spruce.
So one layer of micro-lite filler, one layer of mat (you mean the really thin veil stuff, or the heavier chopped mat?) and one layer of cloth is all you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian
My current bodywork is fairly heavy, but I'm not sure if that's by design or from the repairs over the last 20 years. Are there pros and cons to adding more layers of cloth?
I'll consider the suggestions of not using gel coat.. Although my thought of using it was exactly to avoid having to paint it :) I was thinking of using coloured gel coat and leaving it at that. Does gel coat crack easier than paint? I guess that depends on the paint, no such thing as a straight answer with this stuff, eh? :)
Chris Livengood, thanks for the book tip, I'll order it right away!
For most of the last bodywork stuff I've done, I've used Featherfill primer for the first coat in the mold. It acts as a nice barrier to keep you from inadvertently working through the release agent and wax when wetting out the glass, and you will need a primer coat anyway before painting, so that step is already done when the piece comes out of the mold - just sand out any imperfections and spray your top coat.
If you want to make your topcoat more flexible to help keep from cracking, the various paint companies have a flex additive for when their paints are used on flexible car bumpers, etc.
had a fiberglass guy tell me drivers are the worst, can't do fiberglass, no "Patience" not craftsman, just a warning!!
Be sure to use the slow setting rosin & have plenty of fresh air & wear a good respirator & have a pack of disposable gloves on hand & a big bucket of patience & practice on a small ez part first & enjoy the process :) I'm all outta ands...
I think waxing the mold is key. Also remember that some mold release agents do not like to be applied over wax (i.e. FibRelease). I like old green PVA. Also really like Richard's Featherfill primer for the first coat in the mold.
Marty
Wait, wait, wait.. I need patience? I might have to rethink this..
:D
Thanks for the tips everyone, much appreciated. Aircraft Spruce sells a nice practice kit which includes the book Chris Livengood mentioned and the materials used in the book's project. I reckon that'd be a nice thing to try, as it'll probably give me an idea of what I'm getting into and if I have the patience required to get a good result ;)