Printable View
I would like to start in FF or F2000, maybe even purchasing a car. I am 6'1" and 245 lbs (not as much fat as dense (some say in the head, too)). Can anyone suggest cars/classes that I should look into and those to be avoided?
Thanks for your help.
Steve
84 thru 90 Reynards will do the trick in FF and 2000. Steer clear of the Swifts, they are tight in the shoulders and hips. I havn't sat in a Van Diemen, so someone else will have to chime in on that one. Good luck and happy shopping.
In CF a Zink would fit you. In FC, I live in Northern NJ, you are invited to try my Citation on for size (I also know of a Citation FC soon for sale). Once you get thru the narrow top frame the Citation is roomy.
I am thinking about getting into FF or F2000 racing through the purchase of a car/trailer. Here is the issue - I'm 6'1" and about 245 lbs (more dense than fat). Can you recommend cars that I should look at and those that I should pass up? Don't want to travel to see a car and then can't get in it.
Thanks for any help/opinions.
Steve
OK,
Some baseline questions to consider
1. Are you going Nationals racing - if you are then you are pretty much going to run a 98+ Van Diemen to be competitive - which can be a bit tight for a big guy - you can try one or two and know if you are going to fit or not. There are some small volume cars like a Tatuus, Carbir Mygale etc that you are going to have to try them out. My experience tells me the Van Diemen's will be OK for height but you will be sitting on the floor and may be pinched at the hips
2. Are you going regional racing - are you considering Club Formula Continental or regular straight FC?
Good news is that the older the car the bigger the cockpit in most cases. Cars here could be 98 or newwer VD's but you could also run 90-97 VD's but I would probably suggest that 97's may be too tight in the shoulders. Also consider 87-90 Reynards which are tighter than the 86-91 Crossle's but bigger than the Van Diemens. Swifts of all vintages are pretty tight - probably not a winner for you
3. Fix your own - You can always cut off the roll cage and move bars around - not preferred but not uncommon. My 1990 Reynard had the cage cut off and redone to accomodate a 6'3" driver about 12 years ago. Here is where a good job is critical. After that owner redid the cage, he re-powdercoated the car and performed a ground up. Would I recommend that path - only if no other option was available.
Good luck
David Keep
My Van Dieman RF94 is tight in the thigh, leg and foot area for me. I'm 6' 175 lb. Shoulder area is pretty roomy, primarily because my car has no panels between the tubes in that area.
Hi Steve,
Couldn't resist the title.
I agree that a Zink would easily fit your frame. I'm 5'10", 210 lbs and have reasonably wide shoulders. My Zink has more than enough room for my upper body. Depends on how large your legs and hips are re: the dash bulkhead but I think you'd fit ok.
If you are in the Charlotte area at any time, you're welcome to try on my Zink, which might be for sale, if I can figure out whether I want to keep it or my Crossle.
Stay in touch. I'm sure we can find one in your size.
Regards,
Mike Allison
Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by msflynn03
I run a VD RF93 and I am 6'1" 200#.
With a beadseat installed it is a bit tight in the shoulders/hips. without the seat there is a bit more room. Once I am in the car it seems ok at my size, although I do notice the compact space when shifting (especially into 4th)
Curt
Steve,
I'm 6' and 225-245lb depending on the time of the year. I'm also very dense with wide shoulders (linebacker build) vs. the big round belly type. My Van Diemen RF87 is currently on the market. If interested, I can see about creating a quick video on the car and capture myself entering and exiting the cockpit. Let me know if you're interested.
see link: http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...264#post119264
Ian Lenhart
lenhart06@yahoo.com
414-719-2043
If you can give us a price range (of the car only) we can better advise you on what can work for you. Unless you want to run CFC you are usually better off with the newest car you can afford. I have a friend (an fellow ApexSpeed member) who is your size and build and he fit in his 2000 VanDiemen FC with a small frame adjustment in the shoulder area. He now has a 2003 Zetec and will make the same mod to it. If you can afford a Zetec you get the reliability and low engine upkeep that comes with it.:D
I would like to spend no more than $20K on the car, preferably $15K or less. Also leaning toward ff2000 rather than ff1600. (BTW, many years ago I spent a couple of years as a Ford mechanic before changing course. I'm not afraid of engine/tranny work and can rebuild an inline 4 (stock) in my sleep.)
This would be for occassional regional racing only.
I appreciate the responses and your time.
Steve
The silence is deadly.
sounds to me like a late CFC would be the ticket: in the 11K to 15K price range, newer suspension (after last rocker arm cars) so that means 1992 thru 1995, probably VD.
since you stated only a couple regionals per year. parts are available. it is a common car, so setup info/help is also available and the car is competitive in the sub-class of FC. will hold resale value.
OTOH, if you like to tinker, (like me), you could go for a late rocker arm or combo car: I have 1991 Crossle 71F FC, rocker arms BUT- also pointy nose, side radiators, (good aero for an old car), can get new parts from factory. Also: have an example that consistently goes to the runoffs (Chuck Moran has the same model car) . He turned a 1:29 at rd atl at last year's national. So we just need to get ours as fast as his.
other choices in this range are 89-91 VD: i think they are rocker in rear and pull rods on front (combo)
Thank you for the reply. I am very new to this as are my two sons who want to get involved (18 and 25).
I'm not afraid to tinker, in fact, I enjoy that the most. Worked my way through grad school working on Lucas electric systems (Prince of Darkness, etc). Then got into Harleys, originally to ride but found working on them was more enjoyable.
I love the look, technology and simplicity of these cars but am hesitant to try to get involved and have it not work out. I fear being new, older and inexperienced could be a problem when thrown in with the young bucks who have been karting in diapers. Don't want to be the odd man out. Is there a broad experience/ability span within the organization?
Thank you again for the advice. It is really appreciated.
I'm also watching the boards and prices, hoping that things may be more readily available after season's end.
Best regards.
Steve
Rick Johnson is giving you good advice
For your 15K - your should also consider assuming a regional approach
1CFC in the south east is through 1995 which provides two or maybe three generations of vehicles
Crossle 63-68 and 71's - about 20 total built of each series. The 71's are rocker/rocker cars that are pretty robust and in the right hands real fast. ChucK Moran has been to the run offs a bunch of times. He has over many years developed that car so that it fits him and his driving style to a T. The 63-68's are also pretty robust and easy to maintain and in the right hands can be fast. I drove one for 8 years and sold it to a local women who nearly won the frist CFC race she entered. Drove better than I ever did. The Crossle has the advantage of the factory still producing parts and cars - I am told by the factory that they could build me a completely new 63F if I really wanted one. If buying one of these cars, the set up data is critical to get as part of the deal. There are not many people who know much about the set up.
Reynard 87-90 - about 150-200 total were imported - fast, easy to set up rocker/rocker car with spare parts readily availalble from Averill Racing who can also provide you with all the settings and pieces to properly set up this car to win. These are well developed series of cars that benefited from being pro raced for a period of time and from a few vendors who really support the car. Cars are pretty robust. I can testify that these are really nice cars to drive and are easy to set up
Swift - DB-3/6 - derivation of the DB-1's which was a revolutionaly FF that killed virtually all challengers from 1984-90+ I don't know the numbers out there but there are more than a few. They also were imported into the Canadian Pro Series. I am told they are pretty nervous and require a talented driver to get everything from the car. Small cockpit and I recall you said you were a big guy - so buyer beware
Van Diemen 1990-1995 - 1990-93 were the first all pushrod cars - fairly revolutionary in their day. Tighter cockpits still than the prior 85+ series Crossle/Reynards/Swifts. These are more fragile and more expensive to drive than the prior cars and takes some real work to properly set up. I am told it is harder to find the sweet spot. It is my understanding the 94-95 cars were designed to improve areo and chassis set up. These cars are allegedly just slightly quicker than the Rocker/Rocker cars. Again on the fragile side and parts are expensive.
That is my take on the cars - others can and will disagree but one of the fun parts of this game is finding your own point of view. Good luck with your journey.
David Keep
David:
Thanks for the compliment.
Because not enough folks came out to play in SEDIV CFC (1990 & earlier) this year, the class was dropped. So, all cars, even the really old ones, are now FC in SEDIV.
Also not a problem, because we went to 8 races and often were one of two or three FC that showed up. Consequently, we have plenty of second place (and one FIRST PLACE) trophies hanging around.
We (Mark and I) do it mostly for fun, but we are working on getting the car to perform like Chuck's. When we do, watch out! At the SIC we were gridded in front of (just barely) all of the FMs and holding our own in the 'real' (newer) FCs. We got several 1:09's (high) on the test day but could only manage a low-to-mid 1:10 on race day. Rob Poma (97VD) smoked everyone with a low 1:07!
This will not be a problem for MSFlynn since they are in NEDIV. I think CFC is 1995 up there too. (Ambrose or someone: please correct me if that is wrong)
here ya go big fella;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6143221&rd=1,1
Rick,
You bring up a good point for a new driver to consider. That is what are the local conditions for regional racing. Is there a CFC class to provide a race for older cars. What do the participation levels look like for CFC and FC. Also what is the age range of vehicles.
For CenDiv, we have CFC as 90 and back and we have a sub race series which is the Great Lakes Challenge for both CFC and FC cars. FC peaked two three years ago and fell off and is now approaching the best participation (12-16 cars) we ever saw in my 8-9 years - and we expect up to four new cars/drivers in 07. It does take a Corey Collins and friends to make that happen.
David
"Who are you going to be on track and in the paddock with" is the most important question when you're just racing for fun (translated: over the hill; ask me how I know). Go to the tracks and meet your future friends. (Might be tough in the off season, so see if you can find out who they are and e-mail or call them; they'll be happy to chat) If you like them just talking to them, it will work out regardless of which class it is. If you don't have a good feeling and aren't excited after meeting them, then move to another class and a different group of people til you find the guys (and gals?) you like; then go buy the car.Quote:
I love the look, technology and simplicity of these cars but am hesitant to try to get involved and have it not work out. I fear being new, older and inexperienced could be a problem when thrown in with the young bucks who have been karting in diapers. Don't want to be the odd man out. Is there a broad experience/ability span within the organization?
Check the poll about age of drivers on this forum; most of us are comfortably over 40.
As for experience/ability........well, my race reports are titled: "Postcards from the Back". :o
Steve,
C'mon in the water is fine. 87 thru 91 Reynard is a great way to start. I doubt anyone will argue that.
I really , really liked my Reynard's!
2 liter motors are basically stronger that 1.6 FF motors. Don't blow up as frequently (generally speaking)
wings are cool,cars stick better. BUT cost you more if you pop a nose.or back into a wall.
You may actually be in a great position to get a car. Keep an eye on this and other open wheel sites. The DC regions bone head decision could be your opportunity to score a good car.
Club Continental in the NER will welcome you with open arms.
The 3 time champ is 49, 2nd place this year is oh 49 ish (straighten me out here Jerry) 3rd this year was yours truly at 48.
We are the mortgage crowd, having fun.
I'm in Westchester County NY If you want to scope out what a FC car is like, your more than welcome to come to up check mine out and have a beer!
Phil Picard
I agree here with Phil. Join us in NARRC (Norther NJ region is part of the NARRC) with either FC or CFC. We already have a couple new drivers for next year - one guy in a RF97 and another in a 95 Vector. Everybody will help you, and most of us are older anyway.
Personally, I find the RF97 to be the best car for the money right now.
Rob
I forgot to mention the 87-up reynards. they are also good cars and have parts avail. and ia the ARRC winner THIS year. (good job Froggy)
Phil & Rob-- you guys forgot to mention what year ranges of cars qualify for CFC. That may be important in this case.
Don't want to make the same error I did--- I got 1991 when 1990 was the limit.
(even though the car is physically the same-- but we already beat that one to death)
In the NER Holomogation date up to 1995 is the criteria for CFC.
In my " re-entry" to racing, fortune placed me in a 1990 Reynard . I had trepidations about getting into a race car again. I had a very brief stint in FF in 1979-80 ' Like you Steve I was afraid that I would not like it and be stuck.
It ended up being the right choice.The Reynard was an easy car to work on. Its competitive enough for you to develop your driving skills without being in a dog car.
I just sold both my Reynard's(got one for my son too) and they held their value well enough to be a good transaction on both sides of the deal.
I moved into a RF94 Van Dieman for several reasons, None of which was not being happy with my Reynard.
I'm sure as I mentioned that the deals on cars will soon present themselves to you. We CFC (and for that matter all open wheel) folks as a group here in the NER are very open with each other, share information and certainly help our fellow racers out in any way we can. Whatever car(s) you get, there is a wealth of information and support at our races available to you.
uuuuummm. The psychological support ....well ... your on your own! cause were all nuts!
Boy. when I started in the early '70s, there was NO advice. Pick something and hope it worked. At least for me, with no other friends interested in racing.
I just wandered in here and see you got some good advice. Especially going to events and meeting people. I had the open wheel sickness too and started out in FV. This summer I came one pocketbook short of adding a Van Dieman club ford. With tire changes, I could have run it in everything from regional SCCA to vintage and been busy every weekend. I saw the car run mid '56s at Lime Rock during shakedown and while the driver is very quick in everything he drives, a car like that would allow you to work on you rather than wondering what the car is capable of. And you shouldn't have to spend more that 2/3 of your 15k to own one either.
On the driver side of the equation, know that I instruct for a darn good driving school, so I guess I have an axe to grind. But know also that in the early '70s there was no school I could go to other than the race organization school. Some lead follows behind an instructor and 'have a nice day.' I'm sure they've improved since then, but investing in race school instruction will get you up to speed three or four times faster than flogging around a race track, ducking faster guys and hoping your 'natural talent' will be enough to do the trick. And besides, I'm self taught but after attending a school or two I started unlearning a lot of the stuff I taught myself.
I'm racing in vintage events in the NE. Hope to see you out there. Good luck, have fun and allow three times as much as you think you'll need for maintenance and repairs.
Thanks for all the advice. I've got more than I can digest.
Steve