All the answers in one place.
[FONT=Verdana]To get the facts organized, I've redone EJ's original post with what I think are the answers given in the thread.
The final "truth" when it comes to the process and material(s) to be used to refurbish and re-coat racing wheels. [/FONT]
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Remove the centers from the rims –
Strip off paint, using " JABSCO PREMIUM or AIRCRAFT stripper, someone soaked theirs in ACETONE[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Get them "blasted" by "SODA. I used ACRYLIC, However, EJ used sand at low [35PSI] pressure [ prior recommendation was NOT sand or glass]). [/FONT]
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Then to crack testing or x-rayed at a NDT* Service- OR AT HOME[/FONT]
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Paint them with " DP90 and EPOXY [some disagree on the epoxy] or RUSTOLEUM or use ALODINE. Carol Smith apparently says LACQUER ONLY.
Then CLEAR COAT for ease of maintenance , NO POWDER COATING. [/FONT]
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Afterwards, re-assemble with new Allen’s and metal locking nut (w/ Loc-Tite). [/FONT]
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SEAL with Dow Corning Silicone Adhesives/Sealant 832 on the crease AFTER the wheel is assembled ONLY[/FONT]
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Hardware: button head flange cap screws in steel with black oxide coating. [NOT stainless due to weakness concerns ] and Grade C lock nuts.[/FONT]
Bolt quality for wheel re-assembly
Fastenall has "grade 12" bolts built to ASTM A574 and ANSI-B18.3. Anyone know if these are adequate quality for wheel re-assembly?---Jim
I forgot to mention, they are metric, hence the 'grade 12' designation.