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Do any of you folks tow your car to the track on an open trailer? I’m looking to “down size” to a light weight rig that I can pull behind my small Class-C RV (rated for 3500lb max towing). I’ve “test-pulled” my 20’ enclosed trailer partially loaded and the side loads from passing semi’s are downright scary – even with my load equalizing hitch and anti-sway bars.
Thoughts?
I have been towing my FF with an open 16 foot trailer for a while now. A number of my fellow drivers do the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by GBugg
Upside:
- Light weight (with car and supplies are just over 2000 lbs) (if you really want to spend money, there are some very nice aluminum small trailers out there that are solid and light)
- Fits in the garage with the roll hoop of the car being the tallest point
- Not much aero profile to cause sway
- One of my fellow drivers tows with a Toyota Tacoma (from the 90s) so it can make it behind anything north of a Yugo in power
- You can see the car in the mirror and the tie down straps so if anything comes loose, you know if you are paying attention (may not be as easy behind a Class C)
Downside:
- Not too much desire to leave it anywhere in the open aside from the track
- Towing in the rain is a mess (but so is racing in the rain... even it if is a blast)
- All the tie-down straps have to get bundled and secured to avoid having them flap in the breeze down the highway (I know this sounds silly but it is so nice at the end of the day to ratchet the strap tight and not have to spend the extra time tidying up the excess strap)
- It can become a bit of a spectacle on the freeway as cars slow beside you to get a look (sometimes an issue when you would really like to change lanes)
All that said, I am actually up-sizing having just purchased a toy hauler. That is simply so I have a place to stay at the track. Since you have that with the Class C, the open trailer may be just the thing for you.
Good Luck
Eric Little
I used to tow my homebuilt DSR (60"W x 90"WB x 700# Dry) on my homebuilt single axle trailer behind my Subaru Forester. Kept the speed limit easily and still got over 25 MPG. Let me know your email address and I will send a picture.
Or, try to get one of Jon Staudacher's low profile plywood boxes.
Marty
I used an open trailer for many cars and never had a problem. One thing I liked is the ability to take the car to the car wash for a post race spritz and not have to unload...also easier to hit the underside of the car.
When I had to park somewhere over night I just covered the racer with an inexpensive tarp; works reasonably well to keep dirt and curious fingers out....orange or blue as best matches your tow car.
Before you spend money and change out any of your equipment, have you really evaluated your weight distribution in the towing vehicle and also in the trailer? The RV package that is put onto the truck chassis for Class C's can have the potential to max out the weight of what the chassis was designed for. If you look at Class C's some are made with much more space behind the rear axle than others. The 'long box' model creates a larger lever arm than the short box and load distribution is more critical on this model.
The tow vehicle: What is in the tow vehicle toward the rear of the cabin? What loads are you adding in that internal space? Do you have 6 cases of drinking water, 4 cases of motor oil, a years worth of clothing folded and put away right along the back wall? Also, where is your onboard water storage? Is it behind the rear axle? All of this weight behind the rear axle uses the rear axle as a fulcrum and is trying to pick the front wheels off the ground.
Have you used a scale under the jack of your trailer to see how much weight you are putting on the hitch of the Class C? Tongue weight can be altered substantially by where you are placing weights in the trailer. Spare motor, Oil, radiator fluid, 5 full sets of tires/wheels, toolboxes, etc. If you have all of this stuff stored right in the front of a trailer, it is all being transferred to the tongue weight. Race trailers have the possibility of gathering weight in the front due to the fact that it is not in the way of bringing a car in and out of the back door. Load distribution in the trailer is VERY important. Especially if you have a long box style Class C.
I am not familiar with putting air bag suspension on the rear axle of a Class C. But I have installed this type system on my F350 dually and there is another racer in our group that has used these setups for years on his tow trucks. I am not overloading my dually, but the logic behind the air bags is sound enough that I opted to run them. By supporting some of the weight with the air bags, weight is transferred forward to the front tires which helps with tracking and stability when running. Your equipment may be fine, you may just be suffering from a weight and load distribution problem. I prefer enclosed trailers for many reasons. So making this style trailer work with my rig is important for me.
x2 on looking at the RV and what can be done to improve towing.
I have towed a 20ft fully loaded trailer with Chevy small block RV
up to E450 ford. 22ft to 33ft
First step get the brakes as good as they can be both trailer and RV.
If they are good enough, suspension upgrades sway bar, and ends
Steering stabilizer was a big help then upgrade shocks
The big thing accept towing at 60-65 range.
Good Luck
I have a lightweight all-aluminum (except the floor) trailer from Montrose Trailers in Michigan:
www.montrosetrailers.com
I purchased it to take my Caterham 7 to track days, and now use it to take my Mallock 11b to Vintage races. I originally towed it with a Volvo XC60 (3500 lb tow rating), and now tow with a Jeep Grand Cherokee (5000 lb tow rating).
The trailer weighs 1500-1700 lbs, and I'm able to avg. 14-15 mpg towing.
Just another option you might want to consider.
Steve
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/atta...id=80310&stc=1http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/atta...id=80311&stc=1
I’m very happy with my Staudacher trailer. I live 1 hour from MidOhio door to door so it is great for short to medium trips. I’ll borrow a box trailer for bigger trips. Most small open trailers could be outfitted like this.. Light, low, easy to store in typical garage.
Staudacher...
I've done both and much prefer an enclosed trailed due to potential weather, roadside issues and tool safety. I'd suggest getting the smallest enclosed box trailer that the car will fit in. My friend has a small enclosed trailer he tows with a small pickup (was a Ranger, now a Colorado)
Thanks for the input! Great thoughts and idea, for sure.
My enclosed trailer weighs (calculated) a little over 6k pounds, so I don't think I can get that close to the 3500/350 rating of the RV by rearranging/removing my "stuff", but maybe. A friend just reminded me that a local club member has a business with commercial truck scales, so I plan to give him a call and see what the empty enclosed weighs as a baseline.
I love that Montrose trailer! But it looks nicer than my budget. And I already have an open trailer that I will experiment with.
Thanks again!
See you at the track.
What are these "enclosed trailers" you speak of?:confused:
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/atta...id=80333&stc=1
Best trailer I have ever owned for towing s FF aluminum open trailer with a canvas cover made by a sail maker was into this for $2500.00 and towed it all over the Pacific Northwest for five years with a pos 4 cylinder suv. Then went to a wings and things car that would not fit.
Did the sail maker also make the frame for the canvas?Quote:
Originally Posted by marchsv
Yes a gentleman from Canada.
That would be perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by marchsv
Yes it was tried to sell it here on apex for $2500.00 for a few weeks, lots of tire kickers but no $s sold it on Craigslist in a day go figure ??
Looks like a Trailex. They are hard to come by, not cheap, and tend to sell fast.