Electrical problems for FF1600

Thank you ahead of time for any helpful info on topic.
i have 92 Ray FF 1600 ,i run engine religiously every week just to keep juices flowing and make sure everything is OK.
I got my body work back from painter and got two new set of good year slicks and was ready to hit the track.
Night before i stared engine (starts at first turn) and packed car on open trailer.
Friday i got on track early (730 am)unpacked car ,lift it up put track wheels on,tight bolts did all pre track inspection.
then tying to start the car starter pinion broke and i spend 4 hours trying to fix it and taking it on and off while trying to start the car(not a sound out of engine)
Luckily for me local welder fixed the starter and i got it mounted back ,but car still wouldn't start.
Next door were Porche guys and one of mechanics checked the car and found ignition switch touching frame and car having no spark.suggested to get new coil cause old one might have been fried,so i did.
still nothing.
Starter turns fine,Aim is on ,new coil.checked all wiring ,still no spark.
Should i replace distributor cap,rotor,or whole distributor is fried?
Any ideas are welcome.
Thank you.
Maris:confused::confused::confused::confused::conf used::confused:

What kind of distributor.

When all else fails, get a coil and points set up and see if that works.

Then you will know if you are using an electronic distributor that is where the problem is.

Did you manually check the timing
Make sure that the low side of the coil is in fact getting 12 volts.

Distributor is Bosh mechanical and original coil was Bosh.
I bought brand new 12 v coil at autozone next to track.
Timing and all other settings were done when engine got freshened up .
Car has 2 hours track time since,.
Porche mechanic suggested that may be little black electric unit inside distributor might be fried from short circuiting wiring.
I bought tester in Auto Zone ,just wondering what is wright order of chasing problem down?
Thank you.:p:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

If you have a Pertronix igniter in the distributor, it might be fried just from leaving the ignition switch on for a minute or two without the engine running, let alone a grounding.

I used to have a Crane photocell ignition and it worked perfectly, then just died, no output voltage to the dist, or signal back.

As was said before, try a set of points and condenser and see if that works.

What Steve Said.

"Make sure that the low side of the coil is in fact getting 12 volts."

Greg

Yes for sure. Make sure you have 12 volts at the coil.

Check the 12 volt wireing to the distributor to make sure nothing is fried there.

Then yes, if you haven't found the problem, either replace the 'little black electric unit' inside the distributor OR replace it with points/condenser.

P.S.
You really don't 'need' that little black thingy in the distributor. FF's and FC's don't rev high enough to float the points.

Then all you need for spares is a set of plugs, points, condenser and coil. If the car miss fires, check the plugs and point gap. If good, change the condenser. If still a problem, change the coil.

If you stay with the little black thingy, ALWAYS have a spare!

AND as pointed out, they tend for FRY if you turn the ignition on without the engine running to test other stuff or, forget to turn the ignition off.

P.P.S.
I don't know the Ray. Do you have one of the long output shaft starter pinions? If so and it's been welded, I'd suggest finding a source for a new one and a spare. Keith Averill at Averill Racing Stuff makes them.

When you have a break in your season, send him yours (or really GOOD measurements) and have a couple made.

I agree that since the car was starting just fine previously that either the pinon breaking caused you to fry the pertronix by leaving the ignition on too long or the tow to the event vibrated a borderline part.

Since you are in Socal you probably can easily find a mechanic who can check the primary circuit all the way from the battery to the coil positive circuit. Ditto from the distributor side of the coil all the way through the points to ground. I use a meter which has a "points resistance" scale. I agree about not using the points eliminators like the Pertronix. There is simply too much chance of leaving the ignition on too long and frying them. I bought one years ago and never installed it. Get a set of Bosch points, condensor, rotor, cap, and coil from one of the FF suppliers and then check all the connections/crimps, etc. in the circuit. Once you do that you are good for a least a couple of years of autocrossing. Use the points resistance test once or twice a season to make sure none of the connections have gone bad. Finally, you may want to carry a spare ignition switch with any required lead connections already made up for a quick replacement.

Dick
CM 85

Thank you guys.
Really appreciate the input.
Well it seams i have some work to do.

:revs::revs::revs::revs::revs:

maris

Coil is brand new,
So i guess i'll take all body work off and start chasing problem down.
Could it be just fried breaker ?
Anyway seems like fun weekend project.

Thanx.
Maris:thumbsup:

But continuous effort that makes one successful.

I would like to thank all Apex Speed members for info assistance and some good in depth ideas on my issue ,but as always it's the little thing you overlook that gets you LOL.
After 4 hours of torturous labor over starter,after Porche mechanics experienced suggestions,after full track day wasted watching other kick ass(at least got credit for unused track).....................
Gentleman.. start your engines.
It was a little 25 c 10 AMP fuse going to coil....
**** happens.

P.S
I had that exact 10 amp fuse in my GMC truck spare box.lol

Racing is one hell of an experience:revs::revs::revs::revs::revs::revs::rev s::revs:.

Maris ...:D:D:D

Precisely why I have no fuses or breakers anywhere near my race car.

Do the wiring properly with nothing but the best (read mil spec) materials and you will have no need for fuses or breakers. Many less things to go wrong.

Every time I have bought a new to me car, first thing is to replace every piece of wire on it so I know it is done properly.

Electrical problems are a nightmare to chase .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kazis31

Gentleman.. start your engines.
It was a little 25 c 10 AMP fuse going to coil....

P.S
I had that exact 10 amp fuse in my GMC truck spare box.lol

Racing is one hell of an experience:revs::revs::revs::revs::revs::revs::rev s::revs:.

Maris ...:D:D:D

---

Ummm...

P.S. BACK:
Take the dang fuse OUT. That is one thing 99% of us here wouldn't even think about cause we DON'T have um.

Fuses are for guys who have lights, horns, heaters, radios and turn signals. Or 2 engineers checking over their car every time in goes click.

P.P.S.
ADD a spare 'little black thing' to your trackside parts box. Assuming you don't blow a fuse :) that's the next weak link.

FFs came with fuses? Since how?

92 Ray .
with Aim data acquisition system,fues for all separate items.

m.:revs::revs::revs:

pardon my ignorance, i have revealed myself as a confirmed Luddite