Pls recommend me some good racing batteries . My odyssey is long overdue for replacement
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Pls recommend me some good racing batteries . My odyssey is long overdue for replacement
Are you up for making your own battery? I made mine from four 3.3v lipo batteries I got from fleabay for about 40 bucks delivered. Weight ended up being about 3.5 pounds,
did you build in a BMS with those?Quote:
Originally Posted by 10rmotor
I've been happy with ones from Deka - made in the U.S., seem to have more cranking power than most, last reasonably long.
I have been using Varley Red Top 30 batteries since 1978 since my English race cars seem to be designed around them.Quote:
Originally Posted by coleking
1971 Brabham BT35
1972 March 722
1972 Brabham BT38
1973 Brabham BT40
1978 Ralt RT1
I've been using their batteries for over 20 years. IMO, they're the best AGM batteries available, and are reasonably priced from many sources on the web.Quote:
Originally Posted by TimH
I've been using the ETX-18L battery in my Zetec and don't need or have a jumper battery. I got my last one from Lowes (in-store pickup), and it was ~$100.
Quote:
Originally Posted by coleking
I'm using an Odyssey ODS-AGM 30E in my Zetec RF01. The Kubota generator on my Zetec doesn't do much charging, but this battery still starts the car just fine after sitting in impound following a race. It's fairly heavy, but I'm having to carry ballast to make weight anyway.
I tried a couple of lithium ion batteries in the past with not very good results. It seemed that if they discharged too much, then they just quit working. I'm guessing they may have had some circuitry in the battery to protect it from deep discharge.
Anyway, I'd stay with the Odyssey, and be sure to put some vibration padding between the battery and the floor, and all hold down clamps. We had a previous AGM battery without any floor padding that experienced a failure during a race and thermal run-away - it was smoking hot when it died. I'm guessing the failure was due to vibration effects.
I did not, though if I was smart enough to know what to do to add a bms it would be easy as all the individual terminals are accessible. Its just currently being charged by the stock alternator and regulator from the GSXR 1000.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
I just happened to see this "suggestion" in my fleabay feed and had always wanted to try building one. My previous attempt at a battery was made from smaller salvaged cells from cordless drill batteries that had a bad cell. I made two 12v cells and wired them in parallel and while they did start the motor it didn't have much grunt. It did start my pit scooter no problem! These cells are much bigger, 1.5 dia X 6" long. I made two delrin blocks with four holes in each to slip fit the cells into and three copper buss bars to make the battery. It was a lot of work but I had the time and machinery to make it. I haven't run a race weekend yet just two ten minute sessions at laguna but so far it has never failed to start up.
Do you know Ted Titmus?
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnhafkenschiel
no one has asked you if your car has a full size alternator, a "maintainer", or is a full loss system;
that answer may lead you to a different solution.
My charging system is the Kubota dynamo and regulator/rectifier. When I come off the track the battery is usually (barring multiple restarts after the session) at ~90% charge. I do charge it between sessions, time permitting.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Link to related thread: http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...7&postcount=29
This setup has been trouble-free for 15 years.
I bought an Odyssey PC545 when my Varley Red Top died. Seemed silly to spend so much money when there were much cheaper locally available options. It has worked well so far. Holds enough charge for a weekend in my total loss pinto car.
I switched from a small gel cell to a lightweight lithium that was a bit less than 2 lbs and it was great till it wasn't. I went through all the hoops the instructions required and it failed under warranty. I spent time on the phone with a customer service/engineer and it was deemed a faulty battery. Unfortunately, since it was in my race car and not the "proper" motorcycle the battery was made for, they would not honor the warranty. I've switche back to the small 18 amp/hr gell cell that I get from the local Battery store for around $60.. It's 14 lbs not 2 lbs, but it's not $300 either.. Just eat fewer Twinkies...
Soooo - back in the day when quadcopters were just coming around I had a friend that got heavily into them. Lithium batteries really didn't have BMS back then, unless you had something commercial and UL approved, like tool batteries.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10rmotor
One day while charging one of his battery packs exploded and damn near burned his house down.
Yeah I'm looking at them right now. Not too hard to wire in. I think I'll start a new thread on this!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Is it still working OK? My Odessey PC 680 is 8 years old, got shorted out due to a really rough track and bulged the sides out 3 years ago and still works like the day I got it . Great batteriesQuote:
Originally Posted by coleking
I use the PC680 size battery as well, with no issues. I took this a step further and used the same battery in my jump box. In a pinch you can pull the jump battery and use it in your car without mods.