Trailer Recommendations?

Purchasing our first Formula Ford and first race car that we've owned. We have no idea which enclosed trailer solution to start looking at. Car dimensions are 11' x 6' x 3' and 1000#. We need to put as much gear in the trailer as possible with the car. We'll be towing with a 6 cylinder diesel 4x4 Sprinter. I'd prefer to stay as short as feasible for towing and parking ease. Thought a 12' might work if I build a shelving system that would sit above the car.

We have absolutely no idea what to look at, who are the reputable companies and what features we need. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

This question is asked often and it's worth reading through the towing forum on here for more information. You will need a 7' wide trailer, no question, for your car to fit through the door - and in that width, 14 and 16' long trailers are very common as they are a standard utility/landscaper/motorcycle trailer. With a van to tow with, the 7' wide is an ideal package (I tow with an SUV) as the narrower width over the standard 8'6 wide will tuck into the shadow of the tow vehicle and your mirrors will work nicely. It will save a lot of fuel on towing as well.

On length, the short answer is this: within REASON, a few extra feet makes little to no difference on purchase price, mpg, or towing handling but all the difference in the world inside the trailer.

I use a custom ordered 7'x18' enclosed trailer for my 5.5' x 14' car and widthwise it's great, but lengthwise it is tight with a full row of shelves across the front. I think for a "minimalist" setup with a slightly smaller car like yours, an "off the shelf" 7x16 enclosed trailer is easy to find, reasonably priced, and will work perfectly.

-Mark

you will also need to consider tongue weight, possibly weight distribution hitches, and how much mountain towing you will be doing. You might want to rent the biggest u-haul trailer (which is not big), load it up with as much weight as possible (engine blocks?) and try to tow that as a indicator of how your vehicle is going to handle it.

Some people can go really light, but figure on 1500-2000 pounds of car and stuff at a minimum.

I was happy with a 7 x 20 V-nose. Had room for pit scooter, tools, and spares, yet could pull it with "1500/150" level vehicles, such as 5.4 gas Expeditions, 5.4 gas vans, pickups, etc.

Thank you very much for the detailed reply. The 7x16 was the size I was thinking would work well.

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Originally Posted by lowside67

This question is asked often and it's worth reading through the towing forum on here for more information. You will need a 7' wide trailer, no question, for your car to fit through the door - and in that width, 14 and 16' long trailers are very common as they are a standard utility/landscaper/motorcycle trailer. With a van to tow with, the 7' wide is an ideal package (I tow with an SUV) as the narrower width over the standard 8'6 wide will tuck into the shadow of the tow vehicle and your mirrors will work nicely. It will save a lot of fuel on towing as well.

On length, the short answer is this: within REASON, a few extra feet makes little to no difference on purchase price, mpg, or towing handling but all the difference in the world inside the trailer.

I use a custom ordered 7'x18' enclosed trailer for my 5.5' x 14' car and widthwise it's great, but lengthwise it is tight with a full row of shelves across the front. I think for a "minimalist" setup with a slightly smaller car like yours, an "off the shelf" 7x16 enclosed trailer is easy to find, reasonably priced, and will work perfectly.

-Mark

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Take a serious look at your towing capacity, mountains, van weight with buildouts and how fast you need to tow?
7x14 works for my FF. Put the nose and spare overhead and tire racks on the upper sides.

If I can suggest, coming from my own experience, get a trailer tall enough that you won't smack your forehead on the rear door header. You'll use up your 90 day allotment of 'sh&ts' and 'G#$ Da##its' on your first weekend.

Trust me!

I resemble that comment! It's literally the first thing I thought when I started looking. :cone:

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Originally Posted by triumph76

If I can suggest, coming from my own experience, get a trailer tall enough that you won't smack your forehead on the rear door header. You'll use up your 90 day allotment of 'sh&ts' and 'G#$ Da##its' on your first weekend.

Trust me!

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Using both a 2010 and a 2016 Mercedes Sprinter RV on the 3500 chassis with the 5000/500 trailer package, I towed a 20x8.5 trailer with a STohr WF1 inside. Trailer by itself was ~3000#. Total trailer loaded weight was ~5800# and tongue weight was managed by carefully arranging the car and necessary stuff (2 set of tires, tools, Honda 3000 generator, 5 fuel jugs, EZ UP, etc). Used a weight distribution hitch. Yes, I know I was 16% overweight but never had an issue with the tow package mounting or RV frame. THe Mercedes actually pulled better than the 36 foot diesel pusher I initially had. I could have gotten by with an 18 foot trailer but it was not worth the cost to downsize. The advantage of the 8.5 wide trailer was the ability to easily load and unload the car by myself using a remote control winch. The Mercedes RV does not have a lot of storage room for toolboxes, etc. Trailer size is more a function of the car inside and the usual tools, tires, fuel, etc. I was towing in the SouthEast so hills were minimal for the most part.

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Originally Posted by Farrout48

Using both a 2010 and a 2016 Mercedes Sprinter RV on the 3500 chassis with the 5000/500 trailer package, I towed a 20x8.5 trailer with a STohr WF1 inside. Trailer by itself was ~3000#. Total trailer loaded weight was ~5800# and tongue weight was managed by carefully arranging the car and necessary stuff (2 set of tires, tools, Honda 3000 generator, 5 fuel jugs, EZ UP, etc). Used a weight distribution hitch. Yes, I know I was 16% overweight but never had an issue with the tow package mounting or RV frame. THe Mercedes actually pulled better than the 36 foot diesel pusher I initially had. I could have gotten by with an 18 foot trailer but it was not worth the cost to downsize. The advantage of the 8.5 wide trailer was the ability to easily load and unload the car by myself using a remote control winch. The Mercedes RV does not have a lot of storage room for toolboxes, etc. Trailer size is more a function of the car inside and the usual tools, tires, fuel, etc. I was towing in the SouthEast so hills were minimal for the most part.

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I would agree that with a sprinter there is little downside to going 8.5 wide vs 7 ft wide. The 8.5 gives you room to move around the car and store stuff alongside if needed. I would think 16x8.5 would be a good comfortable size (Some folks go smaller but a little extra space is really nice). A V nose also give some meaningful space if you can find one.

I would (and did) go 8.5 x 20
Its about the most common size trailer for many reasons.

16x8.5 is minimum. Fits most sports cars as well. My first trailer was 16x8.5 slant v-nose and 6’ interior height. I’m 5-10 so it was my spec. None of my tall friends appreciated it though.
towed my FE, PFM and many Corvettes in it for a few years until I upgraded to a 5th wheel.
you can cram into a smaller trailer but it isn’t worth it. Best benefit of larger trailer is that you can load up everything but the car before the last session and then just drive the car in, strap down and go at the end. Makes for a quicker getaway which is nice especially when you’re already exhausted.

Thanks for all the excellent feedback!

I unfortunately have limited parking and I'm not sure I can swing anything bigger than 7x16 max.

Next question is dual or single axle? I'm assuming I'd have better tongue weight control but once again I'm a neophyte with trailers.

You mentioned the Sprinter RV doesn't have much room inside... I'm on the 2500 platform with two 100# Akitas as well as my wife! I just ordered a driveway Dometic tent/awning set up to make it livable at the track. :)

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Originally Posted by Farrout48

Using both a 2010 and a 2016 Mercedes Sprinter RV on the 3500 chassis with the 5000/500 trailer package, I towed a 20x8.5 trailer with a STohr WF1 inside. Trailer by itself was ~3000#. Total trailer loaded weight was ~5800# and tongue weight was managed by carefully arranging the car and necessary stuff (2 set of tires, tools, Honda 3000 generator, 5 fuel jugs, EZ UP, etc). Used a weight distribution hitch. Yes, I know I was 16% overweight but never had an issue with the tow package mounting or RV frame. THe Mercedes actually pulled better than the 36 foot diesel pusher I initially had. I could have gotten by with an 18 foot trailer but it was not worth the cost to downsize. The advantage of the 8.5 wide trailer was the ability to easily load and unload the car by myself using a remote control winch. The Mercedes RV does not have a lot of storage room for toolboxes, etc. Trailer size is more a function of the car inside and the usual tools, tires, fuel, etc. I was towing in the SouthEast so hills were minimal for the most part.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by scottjk

Thanks for all the excellent feedback!

I unfortunately have limited parking and I'm not sure I can swing anything bigger than 7x16 max.

Next question is dual or single axle? I'm assuming I'd have better tongue weight control but once again I'm a neophyte with trailers.

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Double axle, much better resistance to sway, wind. I have a 7x18 V nose Featherlite that weighs 4600lbs with 500lb tongue weight.

The taller the trailer the longer the door ramp, the less jacking to clear breakover, etc.

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Originally Posted by scottjk

Thanks for all the excellent feedback!

I unfortunately have limited parking and I'm not sure I can swing anything bigger than 7x16 max.

Next question is dual or single axle? I'm assuming I'd have better tongue weight control but once again I'm a neophyte with trailers.

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I will reiterate that I think a 7' wide is a huge advantage and worth sticking with. With a formula car, you can easily walk beside the car, no issue. With a sports racer like mine, it's harder, but for a formula car, it's a no brainer if your goal is to reduce drag and physical size.

Tandem axle is also a no brainer - it will track nicer, if you have a failure it won't immediately punt you off the road, etc. 7x16 tandem axle aluminum ideally will tow brilliantly (mine is 1,900lbs empty and 3,350lbs fully loaded for an EZ Hauler 7x18), be easy to find, and have strong resale.

-Mark

Thanks Mark! I think that will be my target.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lowside67

I will reiterate that I think a 7' wide is a huge advantage and worth sticking with. With a formula car, you can easily walk beside the car, no issue. With a sports racer like mine, it's harder, but for a formula car, it's a no brainer if your goal is to reduce drag and physical size.

Tandem axle is also a no brainer - it will track nicer, if you have a failure it won't immediately punt you off the road, etc. 7x16 tandem axle aluminum ideally will tow brilliantly (mine is 1,900lbs empty and 3,350lbs fully loaded for an EZ Hauler 7x18), be easy to find, and have strong resale.

-Mark

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I don't think it has been mentioned on this thread, but a beavertail rear floor sure makes your life a lot easier. And a heavy duty single sheet vinyl floor (if you want to keep the weight down vs. aluminum checkerplate) to stop all the oil from soaking into your floor. The factory vinyl floor on my Haulmark trailer is still in good shape 25 years later, and if I hadn't been a ham-fisted idiot on a few occasions, would actually still be perfect.

I know you are keen on a 7' wide trailer, and are not likely to be persuaded to do an 8.5' - I think it is a mistake to be honest. I can't believe you'll notice a huge difference in towing, but you will notice a massive difference in convenience/ease of use. For example, on one side of my trailer I had an aluminum shelf made up that bolts to the wall and sits on the wheelwell - these three shelves take all of my fluids and more, eliminated three track boxes that did nothing but bang around on the floor for years and freed up a lot of space.

Good luck
bt

Quote:

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Originally Posted by billtebbutt

I don't think it has been mentioned on this thread, but a beavertail rear floor sure makes your life a lot easier. And a heavy duty single sheet vinyl floor (if you want to keep the weight down vs. aluminum checkerplate) to stop all the oil from soaking into your floor. The factory vinyl floor on my Haulmark trailer is still in good shape 25 years later, and if I hadn't been a ham-fisted idiot on a few occasions, would actually still be perfect.

I know you are keen on a 7' wide trailer, and are not likely to be persuaded to do an 8.5' - I think it is a mistake to be honest. I can't believe you'll notice a huge difference in towing, but you will notice a massive difference in convenience/ease of use. For example, on one side of my trailer I had an aluminum shelf made up that bolts to the wall and sits on the wheelwell - these three shelves take all of my fluids and more, eliminated three track boxes that did nothing but bang around on the floor for years and freed up a lot of space.

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Lots of good comments here. I did something similar over my wheel well. Hold 4 of the big parts boxes. Probably over 200lbs of parts, bolts, and fluids. I built the rack so my pit wheels just clear under it and it has 'legs' that stand on the wheel well.
Over the top of that are 2 tire racks.

In one rear corner I have my scale rig, the other has fuel in a rack and 2 10x20 tents.
This is all stuff loaded before the car. Impossible with something less that 8.5 wide.

I have a basic wood floor (Pace Outback - basic trailer) with outdoor carpet on it. The carpet is backed so fluids do not go through and it holds quite a bit ;)

Oh - and aluminum ramp doors are sexy until they blind you reflecting the sun :( - and they do it well.

Thanks for the input. My issue is storage space at my home. Just looked at some 8x16 and 7x16 and I honestly don't think they'll fit where I'd need to park it. I'd love a 20 x 8.5 stacker... I just don't have room. I may have to stick with 7x14.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by billtebbutt

I don't think it has been mentioned on this thread, but a beavertail rear floor sure makes your life a lot easier. And a heavy duty single sheet vinyl floor (if you want to keep the weight down vs. aluminum checkerplate) to stop all the oil from soaking into your floor. The factory vinyl floor on my Haulmark trailer is still in good shape 25 years later, and if I hadn't been a ham-fisted idiot on a few occasions, would actually still be perfect.

I know you are keen on a 7' wide trailer, and are not likely to be persuaded to do an 8.5' - I think it is a mistake to be honest. I can't believe you'll notice a huge difference in towing, but you will notice a massive difference in convenience/ease of use. For example, on one side of my trailer I had an aluminum shelf made up that bolts to the wall and sits on the wheelwell - these three shelves take all of my fluids and more, eliminated three track boxes that did nothing but bang around on the floor for years and freed up a lot of space.

Good luck
bt

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