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Well I was so hyped up after watching the runoffs that I was trying to remove a spark plug from my gsxr 2008. The spa plug sheated at the bottom of the threads. I am trying any easy out after spraying some thread loosening stuff in there (I am changing the oil already). Tried once with wrong tool on easy out (need 4 square to put on easy out). Will pick up 4 square female tomorrow but an suggestions? I watched videi to say heat it. THanks for any input!
Sorry for all the mospelling - drinking beer now to lower the frustration level!
James
This very thing has happened to me twice now. Both times the head had to come off the engine and we had to machine what was left of the sheared off plug. This is something best left to a machinist or an engine builder.
Last year at Daytona while waiting in impound after the race the chief tech wanted to test our cranking compression and also check the stroke. Two of the plugs were completely frozen in the head. We stopped the tech before he snapped the first one off.
This is somewhat of a common problem with motorcycle engines. I remove mine after every race weekend to check cranking compression. When reinstalling the plugs use a liberal amount of anti-seize on the threads. Just as important to the anti-seize is proper torque.
By the way...do not use heat. These heads are super thin and delicate.
Thanks Gary. I am going to give the easy out a try but if that does not work, I'll pull the head. Maybe I will get lucky. It is just the last 3-4 threads, even the tip of the plug came out so I have a good hole to work with. Delicate operation!
The usual easy-outs may expand the plug body too much and make it even harder to remove. There is available a different type of removal too that you actually hammer into the offending object that broaches some splines on its way in. However, you may not find one that will work with the holes diameter you have already,and even if you do, you will need to remove the head to keep the shaving from falling into the cylinder.
Best advice is that same that other have given - remove the head and take it to a decent machinist.
And always lube your plug threads with never-seize or copperslip.
I had the same problem with a couple of plugs in a GSXR.
After a lot of discussion with George Dean, the solution was to remove the head and drill the plug out. I used increasing drill sizes to slowly reduce the material in the plug. The tricky part is to get the head mounted in a drill press so that the plug hole is perfectly lined up with the drill bit. After a few passes, the leftover plug material was thin enough to easily come out.
Still have not tried to get it out yet but maybe tonight. Question - is there a helicoil in the head for the spark plug or does it thread right into aluminum head? When I looked closely, it looked there is a helicoil but hard to tell for sure. Thanks.
Either way, drilling it out procedure does not change. The max size drill will be less than the ID of the plug hole
If you are going the drill route, do it in a proper milling machine - NOT a drill press. Doing it in the mill ensures a far smaller possibility of the drill chattering, which will cause it to make the hole diamond-shaped or squarish - the mill, with the drill in a proper collet-style endmill holder, is a lot stiffer than a drill in a drill chuck.
Better yet, would be doing it on a cnc mill using an end mill, programmed to cut a circular spiral - you can then easily and safely creep up on the diameter you need without any fear of going too big.
Personally, i would go that route ( have the equipment, so it would be foolish to not use it! ), but would go even further on playing it safe by finishing up the last few thou with a dremel and small stone.
After you remove the remains you may need to go this route.
These things work a treat.
http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
I broke a spark plug in my GSXR last year.
As a last ditch effort, I was able to remove it with these short/non-tapered EZ Outs:
Tight-Clearance Extractor Sets
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/2833/=14emp0k
A fair amount of the head's threads came off with it but I am still running this engine in my car. I had my local shop vacuum out the chips and inspect the cylinder with a scope.
I will have the hole repaired per the suggestions above when I cycle out this engine.
Lessons learned:
Do not remove plugs from a hot engine.
Use anti-seize.
Torque lightly - I believe 8 ft/lbs.
FWIW: When reinstalling the seize-prone oddly-designed spark plugs in my 2008 Expedition, the internets highly recommended use of nickel anti-seize, which is rated to 2400F. Per the Permatex website, aluminum anti-seize is rated 1600F while copper is 1800F.
Well after a lot of effort, I got the ugly puppy out. I broke several sockets and adapters in the process, but it went up two sizes on the easy out before it finally started to move. I really dIdn't think the last one would fit in the hole. I got the other 3 out as well but sprayed wd40 around plug beforehand which helped. Of those 2, the last few threads of plug were galled. I ran the good plug thru the other 3 holes and ok on 2 (including one that broke) but 3rd could only get plug halfway down. Will try with new plug. If that does not work, may consider grease coated tap to clean up threads and hope grease retains chips but will clean as best I can. Trying to avoid pulling head. We'll see. Thanks for the input.
Even with the grease-coated tap you can still get some shards in the chamber. Assuming it is an ally head. you can create a very small vacuum cleaner by using a small plastic tube (ala brake bleeder hose) that is attached to a fitting that is put through the cap of an aerosol can of appropriate size. Then tape this very securely to the end of your vacuum cleaner hose and use the tube to vacuum out anything that falls in there. Have done this several times with Cosworth engines with good success. (i.e. motors have survived)
Thanks - here's some pictures of the ordeal!
Run either a tap down the hole to clean up the threads, or dremel some grooves in the sides of a good plug to act as a chaser. in either case, you will need to get the filings out of the cylinder afterwards.