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I just bought a Vee to vintage race, and our organization requires a brake light on Vees, probably because they group them with small-bore stuff like Midgets and Sprites. I haven't had a chance to look closely at cars in paddock yet, is there just a switch you can tee off the master cylinder? Like an OEM VW brake switch?
Maybe I should get a nice bright LED light like F1 cars and have it flicker sometimes to pretend I'm harvesting "power"
I used one like this for many years. Just find a place where it rests against the pedal. Summit and others have them about $10https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=98651&stc=1
A robust and simple option is to add a 1/8 NPT into your existing brake lines (I used the spot where my rear hardline split into two softlines to the rear calipers on my old car) using a Tee like this:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3209
Then you get a simple 1/8" NPT pressure switch like this:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1146
A cleaner, but more expensive option is to replace your master with a fresh Tilton 76 which has an additional pressure port. You install your normal brake line into one, and then a brake pressure sensor directly into the other port:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3507
-Mark
We have used the banjo bolt switches on a number of cars. No drilling, tapping or extra fittings. But maybe not on a V.
Why would you mess with the hydraulic lines when a switch like pictured above can be added anywhere that pedal movement will actuate it.
In case you guys don't know the afterburner rain light has two wires for actuation and it can be used in flashing mode, way cool, or constantly on. Flashing mode for rain and on for brake.
Ed
I’ve dealt with various switches in production cars over the years. I don’t remember what I landed on last but get quality and/or get an extra for backup. It really sucks having to scramble to find and replace one when a steward warns you shortly before a session…
No fabrication or adjustments involved.
This is exactly what nearly everyone in Sovren uses to meet the odd rule. Simple and cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by J Leonard
i use the afterburner light as well, flashing for rain, solid for brake
Thanks for the hints, folks. Think I'll go with the tee off the rear brake hardline, limits the amount of wiring I need to do, and access is easy. Wish the afterburner lights were cheaper, though...
Don't forget, you can always put a momentary contact switch in series --- just to make sure the driver who is following you is watching the light! (I learned this from Jerry Hansen).
M
Your momentary switch would need to be in PARALLEL instead of series to meet Hansen's spec :D.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Nygard
Steve, FV80
I guess that is what you get from a retired mechanical engineer (we don't need no stinking electrons).
M
As a retired ELECTRONICS ENGINEER, I resemble that remark - Electrons DO have VALUE .. it's just that's it's NEGATIVE!..:D:D:D:D .. and don't misspell any WORDS either ..:D .. and WATCH THAT GRAMMER!! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Marty Nygard
Steve, FV80
The afterburner light is a little more than some others but it is cheap compared to being rear ended because approaching drive can't see you. Our last First race was in decent rain and I lapped nearly everyone and most were real hard to see as I approached them from behind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bardahl77
I use the flashing mode since it really gets your attention and can be seen thorough the spray.
Ed