Will a 7' wide trailer work?

Is anyone using a 7x16 trailer for a FA, FB, or P2 car? I'd love something small and light enough to pull behind my Sprinter van but not sure if this is a workable option. They pull so much easier than an 8.5' wide trailer.

I've been trying to find a picture or two of someone doing this but haven't had much luck. Maybe that tells me it's a stupid idea.

I'll be purchasing one of these by next spring and working on the trailer aspect too.

Thanks in advance. I posted another question here last week and you guys are great!

Brad in MN

The problem with a 7' wide trailer is usually the width of the back door opening. It will be something less than 7' (likely 5-6" per side, so the opening might only be 6' +/- a bit). IF your car has transport wheels that narrow it up, this might not be a problem. But for a sports racer like a P2 car, transport wheels are rarely an option and you have the body width to consider anyways.

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Originally Posted by teamwisconsin

The problem with a 7' wide trailer is usually the width of the back door opening. It will be something less than 7' (likely 5-6" per side, so the opening might only be 6' +/- a bit). IF your car has transport wheels that narrow it up, this might not be a problem. But for a sports racer like a P2 car, transport wheels are rarely an option and you have the body width to consider anyways.

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Yeah, I considered that. It looks like the P2 cars may or may not fit. The rules allow a significant range of widths. I don't want to be the first guy to try this and regret my decision but I'd love that narrower trailer since my closest track is 3 hours away and next closest is 6.

Thanks for the response.

Unless there's a reason the 7' is the max, I highly recommend an 8.5'. The ability to walk down the sides of the car in the trailer FAR outweighs any negatives of the wider trailer.

The previous owner of my 7x18 V nose Featherlite trailer hauled an FA Swift 008 on skinny trailer wheels. The door opening is 70" and the width between the rails of the ramp is 66". So that's one data point.



https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=108478&stc=1

I towed a 1998 Pace 20 ft flat nose enclosed trailer behind a 2010 and 2016 Sprinter 24' RV. The tow package was 5000/500. Some newer ones only have a 3000/350 package. My P2 Stohr WF1 weighed in at 850# dry. Had to put the trailer on a severe diet and distribute the load carefully to get the right tongue weight. Overall weights were 10-12% over the 5000/500 but within the safety factor. I had thought about a 7' trailer but the door opening was too small for the Stohr. Only having a couple inches of clearance made it too difficult to load the Stohr by myself. Towed this way for 9 years all over SEDIV with no issues. Sprinter MPG was 10-12 depending on how fast I drove. The 20ft was big enough to carry two spare sets of tires, generator, tools, bicycle, jacks, fuel jugs, spare parts, awning, compressor, etc. Could have gotten by with an 18ft but nothing shorter.

Larger diameter Transport wheels do not work on a P2 unless you can remove the bodywork.

I have towed my Stohr WF1 in my 7x18 enclosed aluminum EZ Hauler for 4 years now. The door opening is 76" wide on mine, the cables on the rear ramp are 73" apart (though could be relocated if critical). A P2 Stohr WF1 is about 62.5"-63.0" wide with the exception of front splitter end plate which brings the car to about 67.0" wide. You need to be straight and centered when the car goes in, but that's not really a problem.

I load all my stuff before the car goes in, the car is the last thing in (except ramps) and the first thing out. There's not a ton of room when the car is in there, for sure, but that said, I am generally not ever inside the trailer with the car in there anyways.

At the end of the day, I'd love to have a 28x8.5' trailer when I'm at the track, but I love towing the narrow trailer. It's much easier to see past, it gets meaningfully better fuel economy, and is a bit lighter as well.

If I had a pickup, I'd have a small gooseneck in 8.5' wide, but for a bumper pull with these smaller cars, I think a 7 or 7.5' wide is a solid choice.

-Mark

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Originally Posted by lowside67

I have towed my Stohr WF1 in my 7x18 enclosed aluminum EZ Hauler for 4 years now. The door opening is 76" wide on mine, the cables on the rear ramp are 73" apart (though could be relocated if critical). A P2 Stohr WF1 is about 62.5"-63.0" wide with the exception of front splitter end plate which brings the car to about 67.0" wide. You need to be straight and centered when the car goes in, but that's not really a problem.

I load all my stuff before the car goes in, the car is the last thing in (except ramps) and the first thing out. There's not a ton of room when the car is in there, for sure, but that said, I am generally not ever inside the trailer with the car in there anyways.

At the end of the day, I'd love to have a 28x8.5' trailer when I'm at the track, but I love towing the narrow trailer. It's much easier to see past, it gets meaningfully better fuel economy, and is a bit lighter as well.

If I had a pickup, I'd have a small gooseneck in 8.5' wide, but for a bumper pull with these smaller cars, I think a 7 or 7.5' wide is a solid choice.

-Mark

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Thanks Mark. This is exactly what I was hoping for. The WF1 is on the top of my list. I'll be sure to check everything about the specific trailer and car but glad to hear my idea isn't crazy.

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Originally Posted by DanW

The previous owner of my 7x18 V nose Featherlite trailer hauled an FA Swift 008 on skinny trailer wheels. The door opening is 70" and the width between the rails of the ramp is 66". So that's one data point.



https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=108478&stc=1

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Did you draw that picture just for me? If so you may be the nicest guy I've ever met. Thanks for the input. Very helpful!

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Originally Posted by teamwisconsin

The problem with a 7' wide trailer is usually the width of the back door opening. It will be something less than 7' (likely 5-6" per side, so the opening might only be 6' +/- a bit). IF your car has transport wheels that narrow it up, this might not be a problem. But for a sports racer like a P2 car, transport wheels are rarely an option and you have the body width to consider anyways.

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I know it's going to be tight. Thanks for the input!

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Originally Posted by Farrout48

I towed a 1998 Pace 20 ft flat nose enclosed trailer behind a 2010 and 2016 Sprinter 24' RV. The tow package was 5000/500. Some newer ones only have a 3000/350 package. My P2 Stohr WF1 weighed in at 850# dry. Had to put the trailer on a severe diet and distribute the load carefully to get the right tongue weight. Overall weights were 10-12% over the 5000/500 but within the safety factor. I had thought about a 7' trailer but the door opening was too small for the Stohr. Only having a couple inches of clearance made it too difficult to load the Stohr by myself. Towed this way for 9 years all over SEDIV with no issues. Sprinter MPG was 10-12 depending on how fast I drove. The 20ft was big enough to carry two spare sets of tires, generator, tools, bicycle, jacks, fuel jugs, spare parts, awning, compressor, etc. Could have gotten by with an 18ft but nothing shorter.

Larger diameter Transport wheels do not work on a P2 unless you can remove the bodywork.

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I have a pickup truck but I really want to make the Sprinter work since mine is a conversion and I could sleep/eat in there too so if a 7' can work I'm going to really push for it. Thanks for the real world experience with the wider trailer.

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Originally Posted by cory mcleod

Unless there's a reason the 7' is the max, I highly recommend an 8.5'. The ability to walk down the sides of the car in the trailer FAR outweighs any negatives of the wider trailer.

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I think the 8.5' is probably going to relegate me back to my pickup truck. I'm leaning towards a 7' if I can make it work. Thanks for taking the time to chime in!

you can always go with an open trailer that has a storage box/air dam/tire rack on the front like a lot of dirt track guys use.

Some of these photos are a little older, but still provide some general idea. Removing the rear wing assembly is also only 4 easily accessible bolts and I have given some thought to doing so which would then make it very easy to step into the trailer and access the front shelves with the car in place. I found that putting the tires on shoring beams like I have done did a good job of helping with tongue weight - for 2024 I am going to double that, so I'll have one row of tires, and one row of bins which will get me to my desired tongue weight.

-Mark

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Originally Posted by Allemay

Did you draw that picture just for me? If so you may be the nicest guy I've ever met. Thanks for the input. Very helpful!

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Drawing was from the previous owner when I contacted him about buying it. Helped a bunch with layout. Be particularly mindful of tongue weight, especially with tool box and equipment stored in front..

I use a 24x8.5 V nose, when in FA mode with pit wheels no problems, when in P2 mode it JUST fits between the wheel wells, BUT
you really don't want to make the wrong decision up front as you race more you will find out you need more space because you have more spares, wheels, body parts, compressor, gas jugs, generator, tire rack, awning, tent, tool boxes, ect, Now no place to carry them, i would purchase a 20 to 24 V nose by 8.5 and you will be the last trailer you will need.

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Originally Posted by lowside67

Some of these photos are a little older, but still provide some general idea. Removing the rear wing assembly is also only 4 easily accessible bolts and I have given some thought to doing so which would then make it very easy to step into the trailer and access the front shelves with the car in place. I found that putting the tires on shoring beams like I have done did a good job of helping with tongue weight - for 2024 I am going to double that, so I'll have one row of tires, and one row of bins which will get me to my desired tongue weight.

-Mark

https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=108480&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=108481&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=108482&stc=1

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That's awesome. Thanks so much for the pictures! I love the tire rack idea too.

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Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner

you can always go with an open trailer that has a storage box/air dam/tire rack on the front like a lot of dirt track guys use.

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I thought about that and if it wasn't for ****bags possibly stealing my stuff at a hotel I would probably do that. I'd never worry about other guys at the track but I'd like to try some other tracks that are further away and might require a night in a hotel.

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Originally Posted by Allemay

I thought about that and if it wasn't for ****bags possibly stealing my stuff at a hotel I would probably do that. I'd never worry about other guys at the track but I'd like to try some other tracks that are further away and might require a night in a hotel.

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There is at least one track I know of where you need to be extremely careful with things like generators etc - local thieves look at the track stuff as easy pickings. Everything needs to be put away and locked/chained down

best,
bt