I had severe internal engine failure last season. Is it possible for metal shavings or debris to get into the oil cooler and oil lines? Before I run the new engine do I need to flush the oil cooler and lines? What's the best way to do so?
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I had severe internal engine failure last season. Is it possible for metal shavings or debris to get into the oil cooler and oil lines? Before I run the new engine do I need to flush the oil cooler and lines? What's the best way to do so?
The cooler is now scrap. Throw it away and buy new. You will never get it clean enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by openwheeler37
Have all your oil lines and oil tank ultrasonically cleaned, rinsed, and dried.
+1 :thumbsup:Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanW
Plus another. A cooler and cleaning of lines is a lot cheaper than another engine.
Cheers, Graham.
Although I don't have direct experience, I understand there is now an FAA-certified cleaning procedure for oil coolers that have been exposed to an engine failure.
Give Pacific Oil Cooler Service a call...
http://www.oilcoolers.com/default.asp
Thanks guys. Since I'm replacing maybe it's time to upgrade. I'm running a Setrab cooler now, Is there a better brand out there?
we also run a pre-fliter on the line going back into the cooler so you can reuse the cooler If you blow up another engine. $59
Got any more info on this? Website or product name?Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnPaul
Thanks
I did this on my first "B" and was later told by folks much more knowledgeable that on a dry sump system (which btw I am NOT convinced the OP utilizes) placing an inline filter prior to the oil cooler aerates the oil even more than getting shot out of the engine by the scavenge pump. They said no bueno. I was using a drag racing fuel filter w/ about 100 micron stainless steel screen. I NEVER had any issues doing this...
YMMV, Caveat Emptor, Don't believe anything you see on the "internets", Yo Mama so fat...
Blow'd up engines can often have very fine bits, smaller than the screen, almost powder like, that can then attach themselves to the inside of the cooler fins - or so I have been told.
Ever since my scanning electron microscope went TU, it's all been pure speculation...
GC
PS Toss cooler into trash, and clean lines w/ rifle cleaning brush kit, and unscrewing ends.
It helps to have a spare set or three of oil cooler lines.
I am not convinced the "fabric style" or whatever hoses are the ticket.
If you can't assemble AN style hoses properly, have a professional do it.
I have seen examples where they have blow'd apart - that definitely should never happen and comes down to the hose not being assembled correctly.
With the number of engine issues in the motorcycle engined classes, the last thing I would want to do is play "russian roulette" by reusing an oil cooler, lines, etc., that have not been replaced or cleaned after an "engine episode".
The same goes for production automotive based engines.
Just to be clear 95% of all "motorcycles engine issues" are caused by human error. A properly installed and maintained engine can last for a very long time. You'll come to notice that a majority of blown engines are usually the same guys over and over......I had 3 last year......and always because of forgetting to do one little thing or another.Quote:
Originally Posted by kea
JohnPaul,
That may be so, but over the past few years there has been far more discussions about motorcycle engine issues on boards like this one, then I can remember about the automotive based engines that other classes have used for decades.
But as I said, I would replace/clean the cooler and hoses, etc., no matter which engine I was using.
True but I think that most of those threads were early on when everyone was learning proper cooling and oiling methods. Most of which have been sorted. Now you mostly hear about people screwing up. There are also the DSR guys that build ridiculous motors that are so extreme that they are cool with them lasting one weekend. I've seen stock engines go the season no problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by kea
Well since the engines and parts are designed by humans, built by humans, inspected by humans, installed by humans, and operated by humans, claiming human error at 95% is pretty obvious, since you could track any failure back to something a human did or did not do. however it's pretty clear the bike powered cars have a higher failure rate than auto motors, especially catastrophic type failures. when you consider you can't miss a shift like you can with a h-pattern box, and a lot of people are running semi-auto electronics their fragility is even more obvious.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnPaul
Ok wise ass: install error. Btw at Sebring last week I watched 2 FF engines blow up in one day so it happens to everyone across the board auto and mc engines
Agreed for sure.
If you can find a shop that can do a hot flush on the oil cooler I'm of the opinion you can reuse it. I found a local industrial cooler shop that puts the cooler in a boiling cleaning solution while reverse flushing it. This heats up the cooler to help release any bits that were trapped when the cooler cooled off and contracted. A simple cold flush is not satisfactory in my opinion. My new 600 engine ran the last three weekends of the season including test days on a flushed cooler and hoses after I blew it up at Watkins Glen when I didn't tighten the radiator cap and wasn't watching my gauges.
For the record the cooler is just after the oil filter on my car so that probably caught the majority of the debris.
FRAM
After talking with these people (great people to deal with by the way) I sent my cooler to them to have flushed and repaired (if needed) Took about 3 weeks all together with shipping. Once it was all done they contacted me and gave me a break down of what was all done and what was found. They said very little debris was found and they guaranty 100% clean. All said and done with UPS Ground shipping it was around $160Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Jeffords
Good one Charlie, made my day!!!! .......
No offense Gents and carry on, just struck me as funny after reading all that and Charlie sez Fram extracting that from another recent thread. LOL .....
Oh, FYI a few years ago I came up the hill at the Glen after the Esses and came upon Opperman in an Atlantic hanging sideways out of the car, never saw a Formula car up on it's side like that on the flat part of the wheels, slipped and slid but managed to not put my nose into the top of his helmet, a car had blown it's oil filter and word around camp was that it was a WIX ....
immediate red flag ... thumbs up SCCA
I have seen some filters expand the cannister under pressure; this can be caused by someone revving the engine when cold and exceeding the pressure the filter can stand. A good idea to "assist" the oil filter in resisting expansion pressures is to install a band-style hose clamp around the outer diameter of the filter, just half an inch from the base. You can use the hose clamp to wire-lock it to the block. In this way the housing is supported against expansion while preventing any chance of the filter coming loose.
Best, Tom
I do have direct experience, and would completely recommend their service. I haven't priced the coolers we use recently but I'm told their cleaning cost is less than a new cooler. In the past we sent the coolers in batches for a better price.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Jeffords