Centre Lock wheel and stud Lubrication

Hi All
First time New Zealand poster here , but have been viewing and learning from the forum for awhile.
Hopeful I can get some advise , just in the final stages of rebuilding a Juno SSE 2009 and looking to get some advise on what is the best lube [if any ?] on the centre look wheel nuts and locating studs.
I have only used the car a couple of time and in both instances I have problems getting the wheels off after use .
I thought a light coat of Nickel might be the way to go but keen to hear what others use .
Cheers Barry .
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=97170&stc=1

Welcome to the group! Sorry I can't be of any help, I've never had that problem. But I'm interested in how the air is fed into the intake and it looks like the intake tube is rear facing.

Yes It does have a long Rear feed intake .. better pictures attached.
Apparently this was done on the < 2010 models as it was thought that the longer air run gave increased power .. not sure if that was the case but my car dynos well.
Possibly when they went to ITBs the system was changed to more of a direct intake.. maybe someone else will know .
I was looking to convert , but given the car has won several championships here in NZ I thought I would leave as is. https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=97181&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=97182&stc=1

I would be checking the nut and stub axle for wear, they should spin on/off by hand basically, once the tension is off them. If you think its tough to get the nut off now, wait to you lube the stub axle and then overtorque them (ie overstretch the stub axle to get to the desired torque).

I would never, ever lube them.

cheers,
BT

A very light coating of anti-seize on the face of the hub, the outside of the centering barrel, and the locating studs. Do not put anything on the threads. Brush them to keep clean.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Charles Warner

A very light coating of anti-seize on the face of the hub, the outside of the centering barrel, and the locating studs. Do not put anything on the threads. Brush them to keep clean.

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Thanks .. this is what I was thinking .
Gave the threads a good clean .. feel so much better .

Are you having trouble loosening the nuts or getting the wheels off the hubs? The drive pins on the hub look longer than most. Are you retorquing when things are hot?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Charles Warner

A very light coating of anti-seize on the face of the hub, the outside of the centering barrel, and the locating studs. Do not put anything on the threads. Brush them to keep clean.

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And clean the wheel mount face.

That also helps with heat transfer to the rotating heat sink!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J Leonard

Are you having trouble loosening the nuts or getting the wheels off the hubs? The drive pins on the hub look longer than most. Are you retorquing when things are hot?

Beerbudgetracing
And clean the wheel mount face.
That also helps with heat transfer to the rotating heat sink!

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No real issues loosening the wheel nut ...the problem is getting the wheels off the hubs .. there is a lot “stiction” for want of a better
word.
Have only used the car a couple of times and have had trouble removing wheels when both hot and cold.
I thought antiseize would be the best solution , but wanted to check what others use ..or don’t use
https://www.crc.co.nz/Nickel-AntiSei...-976a8a27fe61/
It hard to tell if the problem is the locating studs (drive pins) or if it’s the wheel face to hub connection... or most likely a combination of both

Looking at four cars here. The ARGO Atlantic has studs about 16mm long. Reynard Atlantic 12mm. F1000 car about 16mm. 1984 GTP car in the 15mm range. One of the engineers here can comment on the benefits of having longer studs or not.

I'm guessing someone installed locating studs that are just a bit too big and the fit is an interference fit. Check the size of the holes in the wheel with a drill set and measure the size of the studs to compare.